1963 HONDA CR93

The CR 93 was also derived from a street bike, hence the blinded kickstarter shaft hole. The twin had a bore and stroke of 43 x 43 mm for a total capacity of 124.8 cc. Drive to the camshafts was by gear train on the left hand side of the engine.
Compression ratio 10.2 : 1. Ignition was by crankshaft mounted generator with external HT coils; the contact breaker points were mounted on the inlet camshaft.


Wet sump lubrication, with, as an inheritance from the street bikes, had a rotating oil filter. The gearbox had five speeds.
Claimed power was 16.5 bhp at 11,500 rpm, but it was a well known fact, that most of these little gems were much more powerful than that.
Many times Dutch champion Cees van Dongen’s CR93 had approximately 22 bhp. The early types had a double sided, single leading shoe front brake, the later types a single sided 2ls brake.
The CR93 was a very popular bike, not only for its speed and handling, but also for its legendary reliability and longevity.

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Porting – 2-Stroke

If you look into the intake and exhaust ports of a stock 2-stroke cylinder you will find casting seams that are rough and on some engines depending on manufacturer or hours of use, you will also notice paint in the ports themselves. These are some of the first problems that a porting job will address. Every surface anomaly effects the air flow through the engine. By surfacing or resurfacing the walls of the intake or exhaust port, we are reducing drag (or air turbulence) and increasing air flow. Although you may not think so, this alone will make a noticeable difference in performance, even on an otherwise completely stock engine, but it gets better.


Cylinders basically consist of two parts, the casted “housing” and the cylinder sleeve which is pressed into the housing. Besides the larger ports you see on each side of the cylinder where the reed cage and exhaust are mounted, there are also other channels, namely “transfer ports” that come up from the base of the cylinder along the sides of the sleeve and connect into the cylinder. At the factory, these cylinder/sleeve assemblies are mass produced. Almost always (yet some are way worse than others) the holes in the sleeve do not quite line up with the transfer ports that are opening into them. The result is an obstruction for the air/fuel mixture similar to someone driving straight into a solid wall. This is where porting makes another improvement. By cutting out the “wall” the air/fuel mixture is allowed to flow much more smoothly.

Another obstruction you will notice on a stock cylinder is the bridge that divides certain ports. Generally, these are cast as a flat surface that the intake mixture will run right into, much like the offset sleeves mentioned above. These pillars are extremely important, but they can be extremely improved as well. Instead of having a single flat surface to slow things down, these can be “knife-edged” to cause the air/fuel mixture to slide right by them with minimal resistance. Some engines also have “blocks” that are cast into the ports that also serve as air flow obstruction, these can be also be angled to allow the air to flow over them.

In addition to these problem areas that every engine can benefit from having modified, porting can also take the improvements a step further. The above mentioned aspects are basically about getting the most out of what you have without really effecting how the engine operates. Now it is time to talk about major engine modifications. Please note that these are the areas where experience really shines through and it is easy to make an engine perform worse than it did as stock.

The first on the “high performance” list is expanding the size of the ports. Anytime we modify the way an engine operates (or more specifically, the way air travels though it) we have to plan for a counter modification to keep everything in sync. For example, modifying the size of the intake port might also require a “balanced” increase in exhaust port size. It is not always equal however, depending on the engine and the application, this type of modification can be used to not only increase air flow, but also to tweak the engine’s performance even more. Experience is a necessity!

The last engine modification we will talk about is port raising and lowering. This is the “finest” tunning that can be done on a high performance 2-stroke engine. The idea is to “move” the intake and exhaust openings in the cylinder. This adjusts valve timing in 2-strokes and just as in enlarging ports from the last paragraph, there is planning that must be done ahead of time. When we change the valve timing we also change the compression, there are areas in the system that can be optimized according to other engine components (big bore, stoker crank, etc.). Again this take a thorough understanding of how an engine works with certain performance upgrades.

If some of the modifications (especially the first ones) do not seem like they would have that great of an impact on performance, think about this. An engine running at 6,000 RPMs (which is nothing for a 2-stroke) must get the fuel it needs in and the exhaust is has produced out 100 times every second otherwise it can’t preform or even worse, it could burn up in no time.

Now, a final note about multi-cylinder 2-stroke engines (or any multi cylinder engine for that matter). When doing modifications such as these, from the simplest “clean up” to the most advanced upgrade, on engines with more than a single cylinder it is extremely important to have each cylinder modified as close to exactly the same as humanly possible. The required precision instruments for measuring and the very closest attention to detail. Now think about a performance engine running at 15,000 RPM. The slightest difference can cause one cylinder to run leaner than another and at that speed it can’t last.
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Motori Minarelli powered – Yamaha Toro india

This scooterette from Yamaha, comes with front shielding and flat footboard to prevent any mud splash spoiling your clothes. It also comes with other factory fitted accessories – saree guard, luggage carrier and rear view mirrors


ENGINE: Motori Minarelli  

Type 2 Stroke 
Displacement 49.5 cc 
BorexStroke40.3×38.8mm 
Max. Power2.67/6000 rpm Max. 
Torque 0385/4000 rpm 
Starting Kick start 
Transmission Single Speed
 auto Clutch Wet centrifugal
12 AC Ignition Electronic CDI

This superhit bike give an excellent fuel economy of 83 kilometres to a litre while delivering 2.67 BHP power. It also has an easy kick start with no hassles of gear changing 


Company has stopped manufacturing this model.


Toro Rosa



















this was the model i was using during my school days 
soon to start restoration 
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2 Stroke Engine Troubleshooting And Tips – Basics

2 Stroke Engine 2 stroke engine animation running

So your 2 stroke engine won’t start. Maybe it’s a old machine your trying to bring back to life, or a dependable engine that never lets you down. Luckily for you 2 stroke engine troubleshooting is relatively simple.
Don’t worry, just follow these simple steps and we will have you back up and running in no time. If you are kicking or pulling your 2 stroke motor over repeatedly, please stop. This isn’t a hot 4 stroke we’re are talking about here, 2 stroke engines are very easy to start hot or cold, and hard starting is a sign that something is not right in your engine. All that kicking or pulling is just wearing out your starter and probably your leg or arm in the process.

This is all assuming that you have already checked the basics.

You have fuel in your fuel tank.
You remembered to “turn on the gas” (your fuel shutoff valve is “on”).
Your engine kill switch is in the “run” position.

The 3 Critical Things To Check While 2 Stroke Engine Troubleshooting
There are really only 3 things your 2 stroke engine needs to run:
Air
Spark
Fuel

Yep, it’s that simple. Now this is of course providing your engine isn’t blown up with a hole in the piston or something. Typically if you can “feel” resistance in the form of compression as you kick or pull your engine over, and it’s not making any horrible banging noises, it’s just a matter of checking air, fuel and spark to find the culprit and get you running again.

2 Stroke Engine Troubleshooting – Air

Checking to make sure your engine is getting air is the easiest part. Typically just a visual inspection of the air filter and carburetor area is all it takes. “Air” is usually never the problem. I have only once in my life experienced air being the problem with a 2 stroke engine not starting. It was an old snowmobile that had no air filter and it had sucked a piece of plastic sheeting material that came loose from under the hood into the carburetor. Somehow the plastic had jammed just right as to not cause the throttle to stick wide open but to block the air flow into the engine. (Just a side note, never run any kind of an engine without a good air filter. Your just asking to wear out your engine prematurely or worse.)
2 Stroke Engine Troubleshooting – Spark

You might be saying, “Jim why are we talking about spark before fuel?”. There are 2 reasons that we are going to check spark before we see if your engine is getting fuel:
To check spark, we are going to pull the spark plug, if the spark plug is wet, there is a good indication we ARE getting fuel.
If the plug is dry and we have spark, we are not getting fuel.

So to check the spark we need to pull the rubber cap off the spark plug and remove the plug from the engine. I am not going to get into plug reading as that will be a seperate article in itself. For the purpose of 2 stroke engine troubleshooting, we are going to keep the plug inspection simple.

Ok, so you have the spark plug out of the motor, if the business end of the spark plug is completely caked with black crud, do yourself a favor and get a new spark plug right away. With that said, if the plug looks wet, you are getting fuel. If it looks dry, well, don’t panic yet. Either way, put the spark plug wire back on the plug and lay the business end of the plug on the head (just set the plug on the metal part of the engine near the hole you took it out of). What you are doing here is grounding the plug to the engine, as if it were installed in the engine, but you want to be able to see if the plug sparks when you turn the engine over.

The engine will be very easy to spin over with the spark plug out of the cylinder, spin the engine over by quickly kicking or pulling it, you want it to spin over fairly quickly, don’t pull or kick it real slow. It may require a buddy so one of you can get your head down and look at the spark plug while the other spins the engine over. We are looking for a nice blue spark across the electrode of the spark plug. If you don’t get spark, try a new spark plug before you do anything else, even if the plug looks “good” try a new one.

If you have spark and the plug was dry, move on to “Fuel”

If you have spark and the plug was wet, replace the spark plug and try starting the engine again with the choke off. If this doesn’t work try with the throttle wide open as your engine may be flooded (too much fuel in the cylinder). When 2 stroke engine troubleshooting and the engine is flooded, you want to spin the engine over fast with the throttle wide open several times. You should start to hear it pop, just keep pulling or kicking and holding it wide open until it starts, then rev the engine a bit to clean it out and keep it running, then warm it up properly.

If you still don’t have spark with a new spark plug, you have problems with your electrical system. I won’t go into any more detail on that in this article but I plan to add these types of things to this website as I have time.

2 Stroke Engine Troubleshooting – Spark But No Fuel

As you read above this is assuming you have checked the basics, you know, gas is on, gas in the tank, choke is on. One quick check you can do is to pull the fuel line off your carburetor, turn the gas on for a second and see if fuel is flowing out the fuel line. If all that stuff is ok, then it’s likely at this point you have something blocking the fuel inside your carburetor. There can be several causes of this:
Water in the fuel.
Old fuel evaporated gumming up carb.
Debris in carb plugging up the jets.
Carburetor float stuck.

You have to use some common sense here. If this is a 30 year old motorcycle you pulled out of a barn somewhere, the carb will need to be pulled and comepletely disassembled and cleaned. If this is something that was running recently, and is clean with clean fuel, it may just have gotten moisture in the fuel or debris clogging up the carburetor jets. Most 2 stroke engine carburetors have an access plug or drain plug in the bowl on the bottom of them. Remove this plug (you may have to loosen the carb and tilt it to access this, or even remove the carb from the machine in some cases). Let the fuel drain out and then open the fuel valve ie. “turn on the gas” for a few seconds, it should run clean gas out the hole in the bottom of the carb at a pretty good rate. If not your float is stuck, you can sometimes “break” this loose by gently tapping on the side of the carb with the plastic handle of a screwdriver.

If you see anything remotely white colored in your fuel you have water in your gas. If you suspect you have water in your fuel, you should drain the fuel tank and start with fresh gas. Go to your nearest gas station and grab a bottle of isopropal heet, yes the stuff you put in your car gas tank in the winter. Add a bit of this to your new fuel to wick the remaining moisture out of your fuel system.

Again for the purpose of this 2 stroke engine troubleshooting article I am not going to go into any more detail, but I will be adding carburetor repair videos and ariticles on this brand new website very soon. Please check back often.Thank You Jim Marquardt