HARLEY DAVIDSON V-ROD | CUSTOM MOTORCYCLE ~ Grease n Gasoline

Posted on September 3, 2012 by melwin23

HARLEY DAVIDSON V-ROD | CUSTOM MOTORCYCLE ~ Grease n Gasoline.

HARLEY DAVIDSON V-

ROD | CUSTOM MOTORCYCLE BY WONDER BIKES

Wonder Bikes is a custom bike studio in Texas. The owner Jason Wonder only took a couple of months to turn a Harley Davidson V-Rod into this killer bike. The bike is called Rev-2 features Brembo 4 piston brakes attached to HogPro Daytona wheels wrapped in Metzeler tires. Of course it comes with a V-Rod motor, a fuel-injected 1130cc water-cooled V-twin engine, outputting 115 horsepower!

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Timing Cover can do just more than being a cover

Posted on January 28, 2012 by melwin23

This is a clock I made a while back from a Classic 70’s Norton Commando engine side cover .

Step 1Find a Classic 70’s Motorcycle side cover

I still own, and ride, my two Classic British motorcycles, a restored 1967 Triumph Trophy 650, and a 1972 Norton Commando Interstate 750. I loved them back in the 60’s and promised myself I would someday ride and own at least one. Well I did just that.
I would go to swop meets and buy spares parts. One day I found some engine side covers for cheap. So I cleaned them up and found a clock that almost fit the timing point socket on the right side.

Step 2Get a clock that fits in the timing point hole

I was lucky to find a small battery clock that almost fit in the timing point hole. All I needed was to fill the space around the clock so it was snug. Leatherwork is one of my hobbies, so I cut out a ring of black leather to fit.

Step 3Make a bracket to hang it

I made a bracket of flat aluminum stock to hang it. I drilled some holes in the middle to attach it to a wall hook.

Step 4Put some nice stainless bolts on the outside

I wanted some nice border bolts to glitz it up. I found some nice staainless steel hex head ones at Homeydepo. Put the gasket around the clock, put in a fresh AAA battery, place it in the hole, hang it and enjoy!

Step 5I made one from a Triumph too!

Since I love 60’s Triumphs too I also made one of those. I’m recycling metal and making art too. Wow, who would have guessed? Enjoy, time waits for no man (or woman)!

Porting – 2-Stroke

Posted on January 27, 2012 by melwin23

If you look into the intake and exhaust ports of a stock 2-stroke cylinder you will find casting seams that are rough and on some engines depending on manufacturer or hours of use, you will also notice paint in the ports themselves. These are some of the first problems that a porting job will address. Every surface anomaly effects the air flow through the engine. By surfacing or resurfacing the walls of the intake or exhaust port, we are reducing drag (or air turbulence) and increasing air flow. Although you may not think so, this alone will make a noticeable difference in performance, even on an otherwise completely stock engine, but it gets better.

Cylinders basically consist of two parts, the casted “housing” and the cylinder sleeve which is pressed into the housing. Besides the larger ports you see on each side of the cylinder where the reed cage and exhaust are mounted, there are also other channels, namely “transfer ports” that come up from the base of the cylinder along the sides of the sleeve and connect into the cylinder. At the factory, these cylinder/sleeve assemblies are mass produced. Almost always (yet some are way worse than others) the holes in the sleeve do not quite line up with the transfer ports that are opening into them. The result is an obstruction for the air/fuel mixture similar to someone driving straight into a solid wall. This is where porting makes another improvement. By cutting out the “wall” the air/fuel mixture is allowed to flow much more smoothly.

Another obstruction you will notice on a stock cylinder is the bridge that divides certain ports. Generally, these are cast as a flat surface that the intake mixture will run right into, much like the offset sleeves mentioned above. These pillars are extremely important, but they can be extremely improved as well. Instead of having a single flat surface to slow things down, these can be “knife-edged” to cause the air/fuel mixture to slide right by them with minimal resistance. Some engines also have “blocks” that are cast into the ports that also serve as air flow obstruction, these can be also be angled to allow the air to flow over them.

In addition to these problem areas that every engine can benefit from having modified, porting can also take the improvements a step further. The above mentioned aspects are basically about getting the most out of what you have without really effecting how the engine operates. Now it is time to talk about major engine modifications. Please note that these are the areas where experience really shines through and it is easy to make an engine perform worse than it did as stock.

The first on the “high performance” list is expanding the size of the ports. Anytime we modify the way an engine operates (or more specifically, the way air travels though it) we have to plan for a counter modification to keep everything in sync. For example, modifying the size of the intake port might also require a “balanced” increase in exhaust port size. It is not always equal however, depending on the engine and the application, this type of modification can be used to not only increase air flow, but also to tweak the engine’s performance even more. Experience is a necessity!

The last engine modification we will talk about is port raising and lowering. This is the “finest” tunning that can be done on a high performance 2-stroke engine. The idea is to “move” the intake and exhaust openings in the cylinder. This adjusts valve timing in 2-strokes and just as in enlarging ports from the last paragraph, there is planning that must be done ahead of time. When we change the valve timing we also change the compression, there are areas in the system that can be optimized according to other engine components (big bore, stoker crank, etc.). Again this take a thorough understanding of how an engine works with certain performance upgrades.

If some of the modifications (especially the first ones) do not seem like they would have that great of an impact on performance, think about this. An engine running at 6,000 RPMs (which is nothing for a 2-stroke) must get the fuel it needs in and the exhaust is has produced out 100 times every second otherwise it can’t preform or even worse, it could burn up in no time.

Now, a final note about multi-cylinder 2-stroke engines (or any multi cylinder engine for that matter). When doing modifications such as these, from the simplest “clean up” to the most advanced upgrade, on engines with more than a single cylinder it is extremely important to have each cylinder modified as close to exactly the same as humanly possible. The required precision instruments for measuring and the very closest attention to detail. Now think about a performance engine running at 15,000 RPM. The slightest difference can cause one cylinder to run leaner than another and at that speed it can’t last.

Two Stroke Exhaust Pipes- expansion chambers

Posted on January 23, 2012 by melwin23

Walter Kaaden, the chief engineer for MZ motorcycles in the 1950s, is generally considered the father of the modern two stroke expansion chamber. He reportedly said “You’ll know when you have the design right, because the chamber will then be impossible to fit on the motorcycle without having it drag the ground, burn the rider’s leg, or force the relocation of one or more major components.”

Image via Wikipedia

Two strokes are all about the exhaust. When combustion occurs in a two stroke, the piston is pushed down by the expanding gases uncovering the exhaust port. The exhaust gas rushes out into the header pipe and a pressure wave is created. This wave can be either positive or negative in pressure. If it is a positive wave and hits a change in diameter in the tubing of the exhaust pipe it changes to a negative wave. Hit another change in diameter and the wave changes back to positive. This wave pressure can be as high as seven pounds per square inch (Both positive and negative waves) and travels at 1600 to 1700 feet per second.

If the pipe is made just right, a wave with negative pressure reaches the exhaust port just as it is fully open. This sucks the exhaust AND part of the new intake charge into the exhaust pipe. Then, just before the piston closes the exhaust port, this negative wave changes to a positive wave and pushes the fresh intake fuel charge BACK into the cylinder. All this happens in three to four thousands of a second. This sort of supercharges the engine, giving the high power out put of a two stroke engine. Without that properly designed exhaust pipe called an “Expansion Chamber“, the two stroke engine will have no real power!

There is only one draw back to all this and that is that this supercharging only happens at the specific RPM that the pipe was designed for. Running the engine at any RPM above or below the designed RPM and the supercharging effect will be much less effective. That is why two strokes have such a narrow power band.

Here is a really nice Gif animation showing how it all works. I got this from a web site, made by Joseph A. Schuster in 1997. I have tried to e-mail him but there was no response. The site is no longer online. I am assuming he would want you to have this. One problem with two stroke exhausts is that they can get plugged up with carbon from the oil used to lubricate the engine. The bike will start easily but just will not rev up. This is especially true of quite exhausts. If the exhaust has removable baffles or is fiberglass packed, you can easily clean them and replace the fiberglass packing. If the baffles are not removable it is much harder to clean them. Many stock two stroke exhausts have non removable baffles or have only one or two baffles that are removable. The different baffles collect the unburned carbon and plug up but you can’t easily get to them. There are several cures. Non of which are easy or cheap.

A new exhaust. This the most expensive and sure fire way to cure the problem.

Burn the carbon out of the exhaust. This works quite well. The problem is that you need an oxy-acetylene torch set up and considerable skill in burning it out. You must heat the pipe hot enough to get the carbon burning but not so hot that you melt the steel of the pipe and internal pipe baffles. Once the carbon starts to burn you must make sure enough oxygen gets blown through the pipe to keep the carbon burning until it is all burned out. Sometimes you can actually see the progression of the burn, as a red hot band around the body of the muffler, as it moves from one end of the pipe to the other. If the carbon goes out it is quite hard to get it burning again. This is tricky but works well if you can do it. There is a big risk of melting the internal baffling. Melt a few baffles out and the pipe will run very loud. Do this outside. It produces smoke like a smoke bomb.

Cut the exhaust pipe open on the back side and then burn out the carbon. Then weld the pipe back together. Again, do it outside.

Use caustic soda to dissolve the carbon. Simply fill the pipe with a solution of caustic soda and water. The mixture should be about three pounds of caustic soda mixed with one gallon of water. This is not a real good option because the caustic soda is, well, caustic and dangerous to use. I DO NOT recommend this method.

A mixture of soap that dissolves the carbon. There are several companies that sell special soap for this. I have tried some of their samples and I thought they just did not work. I filled up one plugged exhaust pipe with their soap mixture and left it for about 30 hours and nothing happened. Maybe I didn’t give it enough time. At least it’s harmless to use!

Learn From A Pro How To Install Piston Rings For Maximum Power Production Some Invaluable Advice From the Guys Who Do It Best

Posted on January 21, 2012 by melwin23

From the February, 2009 issue of Circle Track

By Joel Goodman

Photography by Will Handzel

There are so many details in putting together a race engine that it’s hard to cover the entire process and expect you to totally understand. Instead, we’re going to focus on one very specific step in engine building, installing piston rings, so I can be completely thorough, and you will understand.

The installation of piston rings is a critical step that really takes both artwork and science to end up with a combination that seals the combustion pressure above the piston, scrapes the oil off the cylinders so it doesn’t contaminate the combustion process, and transfers heat from the piston into the cylinder wall.

Besides fit, we use different rings for different applications, use some coatings, and try anything that will get more power to the rear wheels. But the basics to obtaining the optimum ring endgap, oil rails/expander fit, and reading rings when they come out of the engine, will get you in the horsepower game.

Piston ring fitment is very important and therefore warrants this discussion.

1. Installing piston rings sounds like it should be a box-to-piston process, but there is more to it than that. Learn what it takes to install rings for minimum cylinder leakage and maximum durability.

2. Piston rings come as a set wrapped in plastic and shipped in boxes. No matter what kind of rings you buy–moly filled, chrome, steel, and so on–inspect them for chips, cracks, rust, or any other inclusions that might cause a failure or combustion pressure leakage once installed. If a ring is damaged in any way, I won’t use it.

3. I like to wipe the rings down with lacquer thinner while inspecting them. Then, I sand all the edges of the rings with 400-grit sandpaper to knock off any rough edges. Use very light pressure and make only one or two passes over the edge. Red Scotch-Brite is then used to remove excessive coating or manufacturers film from the outer edge of the ring.

4. The next step is to install the ring in the appropriate bore, using a piston-ring squaring tool. Often, the piston rings won’t fit in the bore out of the box because they are oversize. If this is the case, don’t force or twist the ring, simply file a little material off the endgap and start the slow process of getting the ring sized right.

5. Many companies, like Powerhouse and ABS, offer piston-ring squaring tools. I had squaring tools made specifically for the pistons in our engines. They locate the ring where it will be around TDC of the stroke. Since combustion happens in this area. I like to set my end gap at this point. Also, due to cylinder distortion when the head is torqued down and the excessive heat generated at combustion, this is the area to establish the proper end-gap dimension.

6. Properly fitting piston rings into the block is a complex process that requires consistent measuring between all cylinders. It is a measured gap, but a certain feel is needed to get that gap right. I use a MAC FG013 feeler gauge with three sizes out (in this case, 0.020-, 0.021- and 0.022-inch sizes) and with the ring square in the bore. I try to slide the appropriate feeler gauge into the gap starting at the inside of the ring. If it doesn’t fit, I go down in size until one does. I consider a gap size true when the appropriate feeler gauge drags slightly going in and out of the gap and when the gap is tight enough that once the gauge is in the gap, the tension will just barely hold the entire feeler gauge in place.

7. In case you don’t know, cutting the ring gap should be done in very small amounts. This is a process that requires time because you need to sneak up on the perfect size. Take your time to avoid oversizing the end gap. If you need to remove 0.020 inch, take 0.010 inch from each side of the ring gap to prevent a poor mating of the two ends of the ring.

8. Before I attempt to cut the ring for the proper endgap, I always cut a couple of thousandths off each end of the ring and check how the ends mate. I pinch the ends together as the ring would be in the cylinder while looking into a light. If the rings does not mate perfectly flat across the end, I adjust the anchor point for the ring file and go through the process again until the two ends mate perfectly. This way, all the other rings for this engine will have good endgaps. This is to minimize combustion-pressure leakage and oil passing through this area.

9. This photo barely shows a sliver of pie-shaped light through the inside edge of the ring endgap. This is why it is important to adjust the ring file for end gap squareness in the beginning.

10. After all the iterations of checking the top and second ring in the bore, grinding on them, and rechecking them for size (measure and keep the rings organized for each specific bore), the next step is to size the oil rails and tensioners. These are truly a feel install. I start with the tensioner, installing it square in the bore and dragging it slowly down and up the bore. I like just enough tension so that the roughness of the bore is felt, but not so much that the tensioner is catching on the surface.

11.To adjust the expander size, I slightly, and I mean slightly, bend the endtabs back on each side of the expander. The tabs need to mate together after you bend the tabs, so don’t bend one a bunch and not touch the other.

12. Once the rings are sized for the bores, I check them all in the pistons. Before that happens, I use 400-grit sandpaper and an undersize feeler gauge to lightly sand the top ring land to knock down any burrs caused during the drilling of the gas ports. I’m not trying to remove material, just prevent the ring from hanging up on a burr.

13. Installing the top and second rings on a piston should be done with care. I like to spread the ring evenly using both hands (as shown). My experience has shown that if you twist a ring on and off the piston, it puts a set twist in the ring, which can prevent it from seating properly in the ring land during engine operation.

14. I then check the vertical clearance with respect to the ring and ring land. This will be different for various engines. For our situation, I want 0.0005- to 0.0008-inch vertical clearance on a restrictor-plate engine and 0.0008- to 0.0012-inch vertical clearance on our open engines. I use 0.001- (ENCO PN 615-5001) and 0.0005-(ENCO PN 615-5000) inch feeler gauges to determine these. Don’t hold these gauges in your hand for long; they will change thickness due to temperature very easily.

Recommended engine break-in procedure

Posted on January 20, 2012 by melwin23

From MOTORCYCLIRecommended engine break-in procedure

Motorcyclist magazine asked four of the top engine builders in the country what they do to ensure peak power output and optimum engine life. This is most of the article, (all of the break–in procedure).

From MOTORCYCLIST Feb. 1991. titled GIVE IT A BREAK-IN (How to make your bike run stronger and live longer).

Use high quality low viscosity oil (Valvoline 30 weight eg.) no synthetics, too slippery, if used during initial breakin the rings are sure to glaze. Initial run should be used to bring oil and coolant up to temperature only, with little or no load, then shut off and allow to cool right down. After thorough cool down (ambient temp), start up and ride under light loads at relativly low rpm 3000-5000 rpm, keep out of top gear, lugging is more detrimental than high rpm. Key advice, constantly vary load on engine, a constant load is not ideal for breaking in bearing tolerances. This run should last only 10-15 minutes before another complete cool down.

The next run should be slightly higher rpm, 5000-7000 and under light to medium loads using short bursts of acceleration to seat the rings in early. Again 10-15 minutes of running should do it and again avoid top gear. Allow to cool right down. The third run should consist of light to medium engine loads with a few more bursts of medium-high rpm, 8000-9000 rpm max, and lasting just 10-15 minutes varying the engine load and avoiding top gear. Next while the engine is still warm drain the oil and change the filter. This gets out the new metal particles that are being worn away. Al Ludington from Vance and Hines feels most of the metal particles will break away within first 50 -75 miles, get them out soon after. To ensure the rings seat well, use same high quality oil and don’t be shy about short duration high rpm blasts through the lower gears after the oil has been changed. A few more 15-20 minute sessions should be used to work up to the engine’s redline gradually increasing the engine loads. After some definite hard running and 250-500 miles it’s a good idea to check the valves. After 500 miles retorquing the head is suggested. Switch to snythetic oil but not before 500-1500 miles. Most of the engine experts warned of the danger of breaking in the engine too easily and ending up withwith an engine that will always run slow whether it is from tight tolerances, inadequate ring seal or carbon buildup. Engine load is more detrimental than rpm, so avoid lugging the engine but rev it freely especially in the lower gears. Muzzy summed up his break-in concerns most concisely: Basically, be sure not to get it too hot but be sure to seat the rings properly. Its that simple………..

So that’s it, sure a lot different than keeping under 4000 rpm for 500 miles then under 5000 rpm for 1000 miles. Maybe bike manufacturers are being super cautious at the expense of your motor’s performance? I think that they take the cautious route that works over time (1000 miles, or about 20 hours of break in) versus a faster route that can be more easily screwed up. FWIW, on the VF1000R, the slower break-in showed better leakdown at 4000 miles than at 1500, and I suspect that the go-slow method of the factory recommendations are looked at more for simplicities sake than for other effects.ST Feb. 1991. titled GIVE IT A BREAK-IN (How to make your bike run stronger and live longer).

The first few hundred miles of a new engine’s life have a major impact on how strongly that engine will perform, how much oil it will consume and how long it will last….. We ask four top engine builders what they do to ensure peak power output and optimum engine life……….piston ring and cylinder seating is critical to get a proper seal for power output and oil consumption…..If the wrong type of oil is used initially or the breakin is too easy, rings and cylinders could glaze and never seal properly. A fresh cylinder wall needs some medium to high engine loadings to get the piston rings to seat properly for good compression but don’t lug or overheat the engine either. Use high quality low viscosity oil (Valvoline 30 weight eg.) no synthetics, too slippery, if used during initial breakin the rings are sure to glaze. Initial run should be used to bring oil and coolant up to temperature only, with little or no load, then shut off and allow to cool right down. After thorough cool down (ambient temp), start up and ride under light loads at relativly low rpm 3000-5000 rpm, keep out of top gear, lugging is more detrimental than high rpm. Key advice, constantly vary load on engine, a constant load is not ideal for breaking in bearing tolerances. This run should last only 10-15 minutes before another complete cool down. The next run should be slightly higher rpm, 5000-7000 and under light to medium loads using short bursts of acceleration to seat the rings in early. Again 10-15 minutes of running should do it and again avoid top gear. Allow to cool right down. The third run should consist of light to medium engine loads with a few more bursts of medium-high rpm, 8000-9000 rpm max, and lasting just 10-15 minutes varying the engine load and avoiding top gear. Next while the engine is still warm drain the oil and change the filter. This gets out the new metal particles that are being worn away. Al Ludington from Vance and Hines feels most of the metal particles will break away within first 50 -75 miles, get them out soon after. To ensure the rings seat well, use same high quality oil and don’t be shy about short duration high rpm blasts through the lower gears after the oil has been changed. A few more 15-20 minute sessions should be used to work up to the engine’s redline gradually increasing the engine loads. After some definite hard running and 250-500 miles it’s a good idea to check the valves. After 500 miles retorquing the head is suggested. Switch to snythetic oil but not before 500-1500 miles. Most of the engine experts warned of the danger of breaking in the engine too easily and ending up withwith an engine that will always run slow whether it is from tight tolerances, inadequate ring seal or carbon buildup. Engine load is more detrimental than rpm, so avoid lugging the engine but rev it freely especially in the lower gears. Muzzy summed up his break-in concerns most concisely: Basically, be sure not to get it too hot but be sure to seat the rings properly. Its that simple………..

How to Repair a Small-Engine Cooling, Exhaust, and Control Systems

Posted on January 19, 2012 by melwin23

An internal combustion engine can develop an internal temperature as high as 4500 degrees Farenheit (2200 degrees Celsius) during the power stroke. Obviously, a small engine’s cooling system is critical to smooth operation as well as long engine life.

A defective cooling system can ruin an otherwise good engine in minutes. Fortunately, small engines have simple cooling systems that require little maintenance to operate for many years. A small two-stroke engine is typically air-cooled.
Servicing Air-Cooled Engines
Most small, single-cylinder engines are cooled by a stream of air developed by fan blades on the flywheel. The air stream is deflected around the cylinder and cylinder head by a metal or plastic cover called a shroud. Additional engine heat is dissipated through cooling fins around the cylinder. Servicing air-cooled systems is generally very easy. Here’s how to service an air-cooled system:
Step 1: Periodically remove the shroud from around the engine flywheel and inspect the inside for debris.

Step 2: With the shroud removed, visually inspect the flywheel blades for debris and damage.
Step 3: Visually inspect cooling fins on the cylinder and cylinder head. Use a wooden stick or clean paintbrush to clear away any debris. When the engine is cool, wipe the surfaces of the cooling fins, cylinder, and cylinder head with a cloth. Remember that even the tip of a cooling fin can have a surface temperature of over 100 degrees Farenheit (38 degrees Celsius).

Step 4: Replace the shroud over the flywheel and cylinder. Make sure the flywheel blades aren’t striking the shroud.
Servicing Small-Engine Exhaust Systems

Exhaust systems require little maintenance. The function of an exhaust system is to get rid of the exhaust gases from the internal combustion process going on in the engine. Depending on what type of implement the small engine is powering, the exhaust system may have a spark arrestor or a muffler that requires periodic service.
Servicing Spark Arrestors

A spark arrestor on a small engine does just that: It arrests — or stops — sparks from leaving the combustion chamber and entering the outside atmosphere. Spark arrestors are especially important on equipment, such as chain saws and trail bikes, that is used around combustible trees and brush. In fact, spark arrestors are required equipment on some small engines in many states.

A spark arrestor is simply a screen on the exhaust port of a small engine. It is designed to stop sparks from exiting the engine. Use the following steps to service a spark arrestor:

Step 1: Make sure the engine is fully cooled and the ignition switch is off.

Step 2: Find the spark arrestor on the side of the engine. It is a screen or a short tube located wherever the exhaust gases exit the engine. Visually inspect the spark arrestor for blockage or damage. If any is found, remove the spark arrestor and clean or replace it.

Step 3: Tighten all nuts on the spark arrestor bracket and the exhaust system.

.
Servicing Mufflers

Mufflers are designed to reduce noise levels on small gas engines. Operating a small engine for any length of time without a muffler will sell you on the value of this device!

Fortunately, exhaust mufflers require no regular servicing beyond a visual inspection. Here’s how to service a muffler:

Step 1: Make sure the engine is fully cooled and the ignition switch is off.

Step 2: Find the muffler on the side of the engine where the exhaust gases exit. Use the end of a screwdriver to lightly strike the muffler at various locations, checking for rust damage or loose nuts. Also check the end of the muffler to ensure that there is no obstruction to exiting gases.

Step 3: Tighten all nuts on the muffler bracket and the exhaust system.

Servicing Small-Engine Controls

Small engines are used to power a wide variety of tools and toys. Controls make engines and their driven devices go faster or slower, turn on or off, change gearing, and make other operating adjustments. Servicing small engines requires servicing these controls as well.

In most cases, servicing controls means adjusting or lubricating them. Some controls are electrical (switches) while others are mechanical (throttles and gear selectors).
Adjusting Controls

Adjusting controls on a small engine typically requires the owner’s manual or a service manual for the specific model. That’s because control adjustments are frequently unique to that model. However, if you don’t have an owner’s manual, mechanical controls can be adjusted following commonsense procedures. Here’s how to adjust a throttle control:

Step 1: Make sure the engine is off and cooled before working on it.

Step 2: Inspect the control cable for kinks, bare spots, or other visible damage. At the same time, wipe oils and debris from the control cable and lever.

Step 3: Inspect both ends of the control cable, checking the connection to the throttle lever as well as to the carburetor or governor. Make sure both ends are securely fastened.

Step 4: Move the throttle lever back and forth as you watch the movement of the carburetor connection. If full lever movement doesn’t fully move the carburetor throttle, adjust the cable as required. In some cases, a fastener on or near the carburetor holds the throttle casing in place while allowing the throttle wire to move. Move the casing as needed and tighten the fastener.

Step 5: Lubricate the control before reassembly.
Lubricating Controls

Mechanical controls on engine-driven devices require periodic lubrication to minimize binding and wear. Here’s how to lubricate a cable control:

Step 1: Disconnect one end of the control wire to allow free movement within the cable. Apply spray or grease lubricant to the wire, making sure lubricant doesn’t reach other parts. Wipe away excess lubricant.

Step 2: Check the control for correct action. If adjustment is required, follow the procedures for adjusting controls.

By using the service guidelines mentioned in this article, you can keep your small engine working properly and save yourself time and money.

Related articles
How to Repair a Small-Engine part 2 -Ignition System (hydro-carbons.blogspot.com)
How to Repair Small Engines part1-Small Engine Basics (hydro-carbons.blogspot.com)
3 stroke engine – cross over between 2stroke and 4stroke engine (hydro-carbons.blogspot.com)
How to Repair a Small-Engine Lubrication System (hydro-carbons.blogspot.com)
Spark Plug- Tune-up (hydro-carbons.blogspot.com)
2 Stroke Engine Troubleshooting And Tips – Basics (hydro-carbons.blogspot.com)
Achieving Better Fuel Economy and High Performance with Gasoline Direct Injection (hydro-carbons.blogspot.com)

Do-it- yourself Gas Tank Rust Removal

Posted on January 16, 2012 by melwin23

Ever look inside the gas tank of an old motorcycle and see nothing but rust? It’s really common and there are products out there to either get rid of the rust or supposedly coat and seal the tank. Well, maybe, but, since a chemical reaction caused it, why not reverse the whole process and really get rid of it?

I was flipping through the pages of the latest Motorcyclist Retro and found an article showing the straightforward process of electrolysis using a battery charger, washing soda and a bit of wire. You combine the simple ingredients, fill the tank, insert the wire anode, turn on the current and let the fun begin. A couple of days later, no rust if you’rethe type of guy who likes to restore old bikes, next time you run into a rusty tank, give this a shot and see how it turns out. It works on smaller individual pieces, too.

Performance Mufflers: Theory-of-Operation and Selection

Posted on January 12, 2012 by melwin23

As published in British V8 Newsletter, Volume XV Issue 2, September 2007

by: Larry Shimp

The focus of this article is on the silencing efficacy of an exhaust system, and how to get the minimum sound with the minimum flow restriction. This may not be of interest to everyone, but for those who want to drive for long distances, especially with air conditioned cars and closed windows, this may be more applicable.

Source of noise:
The combustion process and exhaust cycle of the engine impart vibrations to the air stream that make themselves known as noise. Noise tends to increase in volume as an engine gets bigger and as compression increases, and to increase in frequency (and volume) as engine RPM is increased.

Muffler principles:
There are four main performance muffling principles: expansion, “turbo”, noise cancellation, and noise absorption. Old OEM mufflers worked primarily by restriction, but these will not be considered for performance use.

Dale Knapke’s Supertrapp mufflers utilize the expansion principle.
ExpansionExpansion is one of the oldest designs and works by letting the hot exhaust gases expand and cool so both their velocity and volume are reduced. These mufflers are simply long, big diameter tubes with no internal baffles, usually with an increasing diameter from the inlet to the outlet. As the exhaust gases slow down, the amplitude of the noise they carry is reduced. Expansion is relatively efficient in that the exhaust flow is not really hindered. Unfortunately, it is only practical for smaller, low power, low speed engines. It worked on Model T Fords and similar cars, but modern V8s put out too much exhaust volume for any reasonably sized expansion muffler to take care of.

However, hybrid expansion mufflers are still around. The megaphone mufflers seen on some motorcycles work by expansion in the increasing diameter exhaust tube, and by sound absorption in the fiberglass lining. This is also the fundamental principle of SuperTrapp mufflers (without the plates installed). At this year’s British V8 meet, Dale Knapke utilized SuperTrapp mufflers on his Ford SVO Turbo Triumph, and had good sound attenuation.

Leonard Marshall‘s Summit Turbo mufflers utilize the same noise canceling principles as OEM mufflers.
Chambered mufflers look externally similar, but utilize the “noise canceling” principle.

Turbo”Turbo mufflers” are a variation on OEM style mufflers, but are less restrictive, so they are in the performance category. They were originally developed for the early GM turbo cars (especially the Corvair) because the turbocharged engines didn’t like back pressure. Besides, the turbochargers already provided some muffling effect through expansion and cooling, so less sound attenuation was required from the mufflers. Turbo mufflers consist primarily of a pair of parallel, perforated dead-end tubes, sometimes with a baffle in between. Old style OEM mufflers are similar but usually have smaller tubes and less perforations, and sometimes extra baffles. The exhaust escapes from the holes in the inlet tube, and exits through the holes in the outlet tube. Noise cancellation is by restriction, which slows down the exhaust gasses, and by some noise cancellation as sound waves get reflected among the many inside surfaces. There is some case resonance, but the sound is otherwise similar to noise absorption mufflers.
ChambersNoise canceling is the principle used in chambered mufflers. A well known manufacturer of chambered mufflers is FlowMaster. (Although they externally resemble “turbo” mufflers, their internal construction is quite a bit diferent.) Chambered mufflers have a series of compartments that are designed to cause the sound waves to be reflected back on each other. Sound waves have peaks and valleys. If two waves are 180 degrees out of phase so that the peak of one wave corresponds with the valley of another wave, the peaks and valleys will cancel and the result is silence. Noise canceling ear phones work by electronically generating signals exactly 180 degrees out of phase to detected noise signals. The ultimate car interior cancellation system is therefore an electronic noise canceling circuit that sends counteracting sound waves through the car’s speaker system. This would let the driver determine the amount of interior noise at the turn of a dial. Prototype systems actually do exist, and I understand that some car companies were considering such a system for their production cars.

Mufflers are not (at least not yet) electronic devices and so they must generate the canceling waves mechanically. At certain frequencies, some sound waves will cancel in this type of muffler. The range of frequency cancellation is often increased by having sloped baffles that will work on a variety of frequencies at once. Perfect cancellation is not needed in order to be effective, even partial overlap of the sound waves will result in a reduction in noise. Because the mufflers are limited in size, they mainly cancel higher frequency sound waves (the higher the frequency, the shorter the wavelength). This gives chambered mufflers their characteristic deep (low frequency) sound.

The main appeal of chambered mufflers is their sound characteristics. Low frequency sound is much less irritating than high frequency sound and that is why these mufflers are often described as “mellow”. Another characteristic of chambered mufflers is interior resonance. The sound within the muffler tends to vibrate the muffler case, turning it into what is, in effect, a speaker. This amplifies the sound inside the car and can be either an advantage or a disadvantage, depending on personal preference.

The main disadvantage of chambered mufflers is that they tend to restrict flow. This is a consequence of their sound wave reflection operating principle because as sound waves are reflected, so are actual exhaust gasses. However, they tend to be less restrictive than most turbo mufflers.

There are three ways to minimize this restrictive effect on performance. The first is to use as large a muffler as possible. But space in an MGB or similar car is very limited so this is not practical. The other is to place the muffler as far back from the engine as possible. In this position the exhaust gases have cooled as much as they can, and cool gases take up less volume; in effect giving the same outcome as a larger muffler. Many modern cars have their main muffler at the very rear of the exhaust system for this reason. However, space for an MG exhaust is very limited behind the rear axle, so this is not practical (but it may be practical for some cars like Triumphs). The third solution is to use an X pipe or an H pipe and a dual exhaust system. The connection between the pipes (before the mufflers) permits each exhaust pulse to use both mufflers, which gives the same effect as using a much larger muffler. Because the firing pulses in a V8 engine overlap to some extent (unless the engine has a single plane crankshaft), not every pulse has the whole exhaust system to itself, but the principle is still effective.

Car Chemistry brand mufflers are a variation on the out of phase noise canceling principle. They divide up the exhaust stream into two parts, and slow down one stream relative to the other. The velocity difference causes some out of phase variation in the sound waves between the two exhaust streams which results in some noise attenuation. For the maximum effect, the gas stream has to have a high inlet velocity, and so these mufflers are best installed as close to the engine as possible.

The Car Chemistry mufflers are not a good choice as a primary muffler because their overall sound attenuation is not as great as a conventional muffler. But they are useful as a supplement. These are available as a complete muffler, or as an insert that fits into the exhaust tubing. The inserts are the ultimate answer to ground clearance issues, but there is some restriction from the inserts. It is therefore best to oversize the exhaust tubing if using the inserts.

Al Wulf’s glass pack mufflers utilize the absorption principle.
AbsorptionAbsorption is the principle by which a glass-pack muffler works. There is a perforated tube within the muffler, and the sound radiates out through the perforations where it is absorbed by the fiber filler. Essentially, the sound is dissipated trying to vibrate the filler material and, in addition, the filler material does not reflect the sound waves back to the exhaust stream. Unlike chambered mufflers, these mufflers absorb sound at all frequencies and the result is the normal exhaust sound, only quieter. They will not produce a nice rumble like a chambered muffler without a lot of higher frequency noise accompanying it. The goal of an absorption muffler is as quiet a sound as possible; otherwise the higher frequency components of the sound can become annoying. One advantage is that, because most of the sound is absorbed before it gets to the outer case, the case resonates very little, and so interior resonance is generally less compared to a chambered muffler.

Absorption mufflers can be more efficient than chambered mufflers, but that depends on the design and installation. Many of these mufflers have a louvered internal tube. When the flow goes against the louvers, the sound is efficiently absorbed, but the louvers create turbulence that restricts flow. Turning the mufflers around greatly reduces turbulence, but it also greatly increases noise. Some mufflers, like the Magnaflow, have perforated tubes with plain holes and no louvers. These can be installed in either direction, and have the best compromise between flow restriction and sound absorption.

Of interest is that absorption mufflers both get louder and lose flow capability if the packing starts to come loose. Loose packing creates larger internal voids and this causes greater turbulence in the exhaust gases as they penetrate farther into the muffler outside of the main flow tube.
Additional IssuesMuffler configuration:
For the least noise it is always best to have two mufflers in series. The second muffler will absorb sound missed by the first muffler, and there will be some wave type noise canceling in the tubing between the two mufflers. Ideally, the second muffler should do most of the silencing but even a small resonator at the end of the exhaust system will make a big difference.

Exhaust outlet:
The exhaust outlet should extend beyond the separate bumper found on MGBs and most vintage sports cars. This is because the curved inner surface of the bumper will reflect the exhaust noise back towards the car contributing to “droning” during cruising. Another alternative is to used turned down exhaust tips to keep the noise away from the bumper/reflector.

Exhaust pipe size:
As a rule of thumb, a 2 inch dual exhaust is fine for a mild 215 engine, a 2 1/4 inch diameter is good for up to about 300 cubic inches, while a 2 ½ inch exhaust is good for a highly tuned 350. A 3 inch exhaust is better for larger performance engines. In theory, using too large of an exhaust can decrease low end torque because the increased gas velocity of a smaller pipe helps scavenging. However, I doubt this is too strong of an effect, and probably header diameter and length is more important for scavenging. But with an old British car, ground clearance is limited and that is a good reason for not using too large of a pipe.

In any case, the largest piping is needed before the X or H pipe. As was explained earlier, the X or H pipe allows the exhaust pulses to use both exhaust pipes, while the pulses are restricted to only one pipe before the cross over connection. Also, the exhaust gases have cooled slightly by the time they reach the cross over and will take up slightly less volume, but the cross over connection is the main effect. Logically, then, a way to minimize ground clearance issues and retain many of the advantages of a large diameter exhaust is to make a custom crossover piece with larger diameter inlet than outlet pipes.

To summarize, there are ways to make a quiet exhaust system without sacrificing power.

Disclaimer: This page was researched and written by Larry Shimp. Views expressed are those of the author, and are provided without warrantee or guarantee. Apply at your own risk.

LEOVINCE SBK SILENCER PACKING MAINTENANCE AND REPLACEMENT

Posted on January 4, 2012 by melwin23

The products of the SBK range utilize thermally and mechanically resistant fiberglass wool, but
due to the nature and function of the silencer itself, they are liable to wear.
As described in paragraph 3.00 of the General Guarantee conditions in the booklet
accompanying every LeoVince system, regular maintenance must be performed on the silencer
(muffler) packing.
It is necessary to periodically check the integrity of the packing material. This can initially be
done by listening for excessive exhaust noise. If the exhaust tone is uncharacteristically loud or
metallic/hollow sounding, most likely the packing needs to be replaced. The average duration of
the packing material obviously varies according to the load applied, riding style of the user and
engine size and configuration. For example, a large single or twin cylinder bike will tend to
require shorter packing intervals than a 4 cylinder bike of the same displacement. That being said
it is not uncommon for singles and twins to go 15k miles between repacks and 4 cylinders to go
20k or more due to the high quality dense packing used in LeoVince SBK products.
If the packing material is found to have deteriorated, it should be replaced before this
deterioration affects the heat insulation properties towards the exterior of the silencer. If this is
not done, in time there can be a risk of damaging the carbon mounting brackets/ silencer sleeves
and possibly body panels/fairings on the motorcycle.
NOTE: The replacement of the muffler packing must be done exclusively with original
LeoVince spare parts and by following the assembly instructions provided in the pack.
INSTRUCTIONS FOR REPLACING PACKING MATERIAL INSIDE LEOVINCE SBK
SILENCERS
1. Make sure the silencer is at room temperature before beginning work, and remove the
silencer from the exhaust system and motorcycle.
2. Using a 7/32 drill bit (preferably cobalt or titanium coated) drill the rivets out of the front
end cap only.
3. Slide the silencer sleeve and rear end cap off as one piece and remove the old packing
material wrapped around the mufflers core. Be sure not to remove the steel wire mesh
tube around the silencers core as this will be re-used.
4. It is also recommended to drill the rivets out of the rear cap and remove it from the sleeve
as well to help facilitate the final re-assembly of the silencer later.
5. Proceed to wrap the first layer of packing material around the muffler core (perforated
metal tube). This material is shown on the right in the first photo and marked with a
number “1” (Your SBK repack contains 2 layers of packing material number “1”). In
order to achieve the correct balance between duration and noise level it is essential to not
put too much pressure on the fiberglass wool while wrapping it around the perforated
core.
6. Next, wrap the second layer of packing material around the perforated muffler core (same
as the first layer). Again, be sure not to put too much pressure on the material as you
wrap it, as it does not need to be excessively tight.
7. Trim off any packing that protrudes past the end of the perforated core and secure the
whole assembly using masking tape. Be sure to wrap the tape all the way around the
circumference so that it does not come loose.
8. Repeat the same procedure (steps 6-7) with the glossy outside layer of packing material
(material labeled number “2” from the first photo. Make sure the more glossy side of this
layer is facing the outside.
9. Re-assemble the silencer by sliding the muffler sleeve over the core assembly and reinstalling
the end caps (remember to re-install the carbon fiber end cap on Factory
mufflers that are so equipped). Line up the rivet bands over the rivet holes, over-lapping
the final two holes of each band and rivet both the front and rear ends of the muffler. To
avoid the risk of any leakage or wear of the rivets, we strongly recommend using the
LeoVince spare parts rivets (sold separately with the rivet straps) as they are made from a
high quality 304 stainless steel.

Grease n Gasoline

http://hydro-carbons.blogspot.com/ Daily updates on cars / motorcycles : Custom designs , concepts , new launch , vintage , Motor racing

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LEOVINCE SBK SILENCER PACKING MAINTENANCE AND REPLACEMENT

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