Recommended engine break-in procedure

Posted on January 20, 2012 by melwin23

From MOTORCYCLIRecommended engine break-in procedure

Motorcyclist magazine asked four of the top engine builders in the country what they do to ensure peak power output and optimum engine life. This is most of the article, (all of the break–in procedure).

From MOTORCYCLIST Feb. 1991. titled GIVE IT A BREAK-IN (How to make your bike run stronger and live longer).

Use high quality low viscosity oil (Valvoline 30 weight eg.) no synthetics, too slippery, if used during initial breakin the rings are sure to glaze. Initial run should be used to bring oil and coolant up to temperature only, with little or no load, then shut off and allow to cool right down. After thorough cool down (ambient temp), start up and ride under light loads at relativly low rpm 3000-5000 rpm, keep out of top gear, lugging is more detrimental than high rpm. Key advice, constantly vary load on engine, a constant load is not ideal for breaking in bearing tolerances. This run should last only 10-15 minutes before another complete cool down.

The next run should be slightly higher rpm, 5000-7000 and under light to medium loads using short bursts of acceleration to seat the rings in early. Again 10-15 minutes of running should do it and again avoid top gear. Allow to cool right down. The third run should consist of light to medium engine loads with a few more bursts of medium-high rpm, 8000-9000 rpm max, and lasting just 10-15 minutes varying the engine load and avoiding top gear. Next while the engine is still warm drain the oil and change the filter. This gets out the new metal particles that are being worn away. Al Ludington from Vance and Hines feels most of the metal particles will break away within first 50 -75 miles, get them out soon after. To ensure the rings seat well, use same high quality oil and don’t be shy about short duration high rpm blasts through the lower gears after the oil has been changed. A few more 15-20 minute sessions should be used to work up to the engine’s redline gradually increasing the engine loads. After some definite hard running and 250-500 miles it’s a good idea to check the valves. After 500 miles retorquing the head is suggested. Switch to snythetic oil but not before 500-1500 miles. Most of the engine experts warned of the danger of breaking in the engine too easily and ending up withwith an engine that will always run slow whether it is from tight tolerances, inadequate ring seal or carbon buildup. Engine load is more detrimental than rpm, so avoid lugging the engine but rev it freely especially in the lower gears. Muzzy summed up his break-in concerns most concisely: Basically, be sure not to get it too hot but be sure to seat the rings properly. Its that simple………..

So that’s it, sure a lot different than keeping under 4000 rpm for 500 miles then under 5000 rpm for 1000 miles. Maybe bike manufacturers are being super cautious at the expense of your motor’s performance? I think that they take the cautious route that works over time (1000 miles, or about 20 hours of break in) versus a faster route that can be more easily screwed up. FWIW, on the VF1000R, the slower break-in showed better leakdown at 4000 miles than at 1500, and I suspect that the go-slow method of the factory recommendations are looked at more for simplicities sake than for other effects.ST Feb. 1991. titled GIVE IT A BREAK-IN (How to make your bike run stronger and live longer).

The first few hundred miles of a new engine’s life have a major impact on how strongly that engine will perform, how much oil it will consume and how long it will last….. We ask four top engine builders what they do to ensure peak power output and optimum engine life……….piston ring and cylinder seating is critical to get a proper seal for power output and oil consumption…..If the wrong type of oil is used initially or the breakin is too easy, rings and cylinders could glaze and never seal properly. A fresh cylinder wall needs some medium to high engine loadings to get the piston rings to seat properly for good compression but don’t lug or overheat the engine either. Use high quality low viscosity oil (Valvoline 30 weight eg.) no synthetics, too slippery, if used during initial breakin the rings are sure to glaze. Initial run should be used to bring oil and coolant up to temperature only, with little or no load, then shut off and allow to cool right down. After thorough cool down (ambient temp), start up and ride under light loads at relativly low rpm 3000-5000 rpm, keep out of top gear, lugging is more detrimental than high rpm. Key advice, constantly vary load on engine, a constant load is not ideal for breaking in bearing tolerances. This run should last only 10-15 minutes before another complete cool down. The next run should be slightly higher rpm, 5000-7000 and under light to medium loads using short bursts of acceleration to seat the rings in early. Again 10-15 minutes of running should do it and again avoid top gear. Allow to cool right down. The third run should consist of light to medium engine loads with a few more bursts of medium-high rpm, 8000-9000 rpm max, and lasting just 10-15 minutes varying the engine load and avoiding top gear. Next while the engine is still warm drain the oil and change the filter. This gets out the new metal particles that are being worn away. Al Ludington from Vance and Hines feels most of the metal particles will break away within first 50 -75 miles, get them out soon after. To ensure the rings seat well, use same high quality oil and don’t be shy about short duration high rpm blasts through the lower gears after the oil has been changed. A few more 15-20 minute sessions should be used to work up to the engine’s redline gradually increasing the engine loads. After some definite hard running and 250-500 miles it’s a good idea to check the valves. After 500 miles retorquing the head is suggested. Switch to snythetic oil but not before 500-1500 miles. Most of the engine experts warned of the danger of breaking in the engine too easily and ending up withwith an engine that will always run slow whether it is from tight tolerances, inadequate ring seal or carbon buildup. Engine load is more detrimental than rpm, so avoid lugging the engine but rev it freely especially in the lower gears. Muzzy summed up his break-in concerns most concisely: Basically, be sure not to get it too hot but be sure to seat the rings properly. Its that simple………..

ELF Racing – ELF Motorcycle Chassis Designs – Retrospective

Posted on January 5, 2012 by melwin23

The waving of the checkered flag at the Brazilian Grand Prix on September 17, 1988, marked the end of an era. A decade of exciting experimentation came to a close that day when the last ELF racing motorcycle completed its final race. In the 10 years leading up to that day, the ELF name had transcended its petroleum-industry roots. It had become synonymous with a series of ambitious, high-profile and determined attempts to expand the frontiers of motorcycle chassis design. ELF created an alternative motorcycle that would demonstrate its superiority on the most demanding proving ground-international roadracing competition.

ELF wasn’t the first to experiment with alternative motorcycle chassis designs, but it was the best publicized and, thanks to the French petroleum company’s vast resources, the best funded, too. Even if its two-wheeled experiments didn’t radically alter motorcycling’s future, ELF made chassis experimentation respectable. Inspired by ELF, countless designers the world over were encouraged to create the motorcycle of the future. ELF may not have been the first to dream up some of the ideas it subsequently claimed credit for (and patented to recoup some development costs by selling them to Honda), but it legitimized the effort. The actual design solutions ELF evolved over the years were overshadowed by its influence over motorcycle design. Thanks to its involvement in world championship roadracing, the alternative motorcycle design is more of a reality and less of a dream.

ELF has a long history of supporting new motorsports technology, and leveraging that support to build its brand. ELF sponsored Renault in the 1970s, when the French automotive giant introduced turbocharging technology to endurance racing and then to F1. Andre de Cortanze, one of the leading Renault designers during that period, came up with the A442 Alpine-Renault V6 turbo that won the Le Mans 24 Hours, and also developed Renault’s first turbo GP racecar. An enthusiastic enduro rider on two wheels, he was also full of avant-garde ideas on motorcycle design, many of which incorporated lessons learned from the racing car world. Sharing these in conversation with ELF’s marketing boss Francois Guiter during breaks in testing Renault, de Cortanze was eventually entrusted with a small budget for a motorcycle prototype to test his ideas. Thus the ELF motorcycle project was born.

The subsequent Yamaha TZ750-powered ELF X (for experimental) appeared in unfinished form at the 1978 Paris Show. The machine incorporated many of de Cortanze’s principal design aims, which he summarized thusly: “I wanted to get rid of every preconceived notion I had of what a motorcycle should consist of and look like,” he explained. “I wanted to achieve four aims: lower the center of gravity, incorporate ‘natural’ antidive suspension, reduce weight and eliminate the chassis completely as a separate entity. There were secondary objectives: to achieve an ideal 50/50 weight distribution, lower the frontal aspect to reduce the drag coefficient (Cx) and be able to change wheels quickly. I also hoped to improve airflow to the radiator for more effective cooling, and make the suspension and steering geometry adjustable quickly and easily in a way that we had begun to accept as normal on racing cars but which was largely unavailable then on bikes.” De Cortanze was nothing if not ambitious.

The ELF X, built in de Cortanze’s spare time at Renault with its passive blessing, established many of the design features that would become his signatures in future years. Parallel arms replaced a conventional front fork, and a single-sided swingarm held the rear wheel. The chassis was essentially deleted. The arms were mounted to plates bolted to the stressed-member engine. The fuel tank was located beneath the engine, and wind-tunnel-designed bodywork maximized aerodynamic efficiency. The ELF X was a fundamentally radical racing machine.

Michel Rougerie undertook initial track testing in 1978, prior to its racing debut at Nogaro later that year. But development was slow, hampered by problems with a Yamaha two-stroke that proved unsuitable for use as a fully stressed member, and de Cortanze’s part-time involvement. But ELF X made a sufficient impression for none other than Honda to express interest. A private 1979 test session with a Honda test rider confirmed that interest. Soon a collaboration was launched between the Japanese manufacturer and the French fuel giant. Honda agreed to supply ELF with works 1000cc RSC endurance engines for the 1980 season, around which de Cortanze would build an all-new bike incorporating the lessons learned on the ELF X.

The result was the ELFe (for endurance) that debuted at the 1981 Bol d’Or and, with substantial ELF backing, competed in every round of the World Endurance Championship until the end of 1983. Though the ELFe was very fast, often qualifying on pole and leading early laps, the chassis was unreliable. Refined to the purest form of de Cortanze’s ideas, it finished third in the final 1000cc TTl/Endurance race at Mugello in 1983, then captured six world-speed records at Italy’s Nardo test track in 1986 in ELF R (for record) form, fitted with special streamlining.

The end of one-liter endurance racing at the end of the 1983 season enabled ELF to enter the higher-profile world of prototype GP racing and reap better promotional dividends. Honda supported them with three-cylinder RS500 engines, and in June of 1984 the ELF2 began testing in the hands of de Cortanze’s longtime collaborator, Christian Leliard. Its most interesting feature was a revolutionary steering system, consisting of handlebars mounted to a crossmember and rigged to move fore and aft, rather than pivoting side to side. The suspension was also adventurous, utilizing a pair of specially made Marzocchi shocks beneath the engine that worked in traction rather than in compression.

The Black Bird, as it was dubbed by the French press, never raced. Riders found the curious steering system hard to get used to (push-starting on a crowded GP grid would have been exciting!). The proximity of the suspension pivots and insufficient damping from the special Marzocchis led to incurable handling problems. It didn’t debut until a year later at the French GP at Le Mans, by which time it morphed into the less-quirky ELF2A, with proven ELFe-type hub-center steering and revised suspension.

At this point de Cortanze was forced to give up his involvement with the ELF project, which had been dwindling due to the pressure of his new job with Peugeot. Guiter entrusted the next stage of development to race manager Serge Rosset, who had been running a pair of NS500 Honda triples in ELF colors while waiting for the ELF2, and engineer/draftsman Dan Trema. Guiter and ELF management were hungry for results. With this in mind, Rosset and Trema collaborated on the relatively conventional ELF3, powered by works Honda NS500 engines. British rider Ron Haslam, fifth in the World Championship the previous year, would ride it.

Rosset’s commitment to produce results had immediate effect. Haslam used the ELF3 to score ELF’s first 500cc World Championship point in its first race at Jarama in 1986. Haslam was a superb test rider, forging an unlikely but lasting close relationship with Rosset. In the hands of this Anglo-French alliance the ELF3 progressed quickly, winding up ninth at the end of the season ahead of the works Suzuki team. The breakthrough had been made: Here was an alternative design that worked as well as a conventional one right out of the box, with an entire development cycle ahead.

Honda agreed, signing a secret 1985 agreement to evaluate ELF’s patented designs with an eye toward production applications. Commercial negotiations to lease the patents began, and an agreement was signed in September 1987. The first Honda to incorporate ELF’s patented single-sided rear swingarm (henceforth dubbed ‘Pro-Arm’) had already been introduced to the market. Trema holds the distinction of being the first outsider to spend a fortnight working inside HRC. He visited there late in 1986 to design parts for the new ELF4 and to work on the NSR500C V4 engine. Delays meant Haslam started the season riding a standard NSR Honda in ELF colors, but he finished fourth in the 1987 points table though he only rode the ELF4 in the final few GPs. Serious brake problems delayed the bike’s race debut. A proposed carbon-fiber chassis was rejected after laboratory tests showed its failure to meet minimum safety standards.

Instead, Rosset and Trema redesigned the V4 ELF for 1988. That was the final year of the ELF bike project, at least partially because of concept champion Guiter’s imminent retirement. Employing a cast-magnesium chassis and Honda-supplied Nissin front brakes, the ELF5 worked well enough, but the conventional opposition had become stronger and more sophisticated. Three seventh places and 11th in the points standings were the fruits of its disappointing final season; an anticlimactic end for a project that had promised so much and actually delivered such useful technology.

In the end, the ELF roadracing effort went out with a whimper instead of a glorious bang. But there was one race victory in the 1986 Macau GP, on a circuit where Ron Haslam is the acknowledged master, to point to as proof that the unconventional motorcycle really did work. Honda obviously thought so too. Every Pro-Arm-equipped VFR Interceptor that rolls out the door reminds us of this fortuitous collaboration. Who are we to argue that?

The final edition

Riding elf5,The End of This Innovative Line

The ELF5 that carried Ron Haslam to 11th place in the 1988 500cc World Championship (sevenths at Spa and Brno were his best results that season) was the ultimate expression of the project’s design philosophy. I had ridden most of the previous ELF designs and was keen to sample the last in line. I got my chance after the 1988 racing season at circuit Paul Ricard during the Au Revoir les ELF test day. The ELF5 evolved from the ELF3, with a true frameset and a single horizontal front swingarm using a MacPherson-like strut and single Showa suspension unit. Team Manager Serge Rosset called this sophisticated, highly adjustable front-end design the VGC System, for Variation Geometrique Controle, or controlled geometric variation. To reduce weight, most chassis and suspension components were made from cast magnesium. The 1988 ELF5 actually used the 1987 Honda NSR500 two-stroke engine, as the ’88 version wasn’t available early enough to allow development of the cast chassis.

The riding position was more extreme than a conventional NSR. You sat farther forward to get more weight on the front wheel. On track, the ELF5 pushed badly, sending me off the outside of the fast sweeper at the end of the Mistrale Straight and again at the tight left after the Pif-Paf chicane.

Haslam explained you couldn’t ride the ELF5 like a traditional GP racer, braking late and steering with the rear on the way out. The ELF5 needed lean angle to turn. When steered like a conventional GP bike, it felt heavy and unresponsive. But apex the corner in a classical Mike Hailwood style and steering became neutral, though still heavy. It was stable but far from nimble, unlike the lighter-feeling ELF3, which felt much more controllable.

What you got in exchange for heavy steering was unparalleled braking stability. Because of the hub-center design’s constant steering geometry, you could brake harder and later than on any conventional machine, and turn under braking without upsetting the handling. Another advantage of the ELF5 was exceptional chassis adjustability; all the usual suspension settings, plus head angle, wheelbase, trail, ride height front and rear, as well as weight distribution were all readily changeable.

It didn’t win a championship, but with the ELF5 Serge Rosset’s dream of une moto a la carte-a bike that could be easily altered to suit the taste of anyone-had been realized. As a believer in the ELF philosophy from the start, I still can’t help but feel a sense of unfinished business surrounding the concept. As former ELF rider Dave Aldana wrote in a sidebar to my test of the ELFe back in 1983: “Nice bike, but not done yet.”

I’ll go along with that.

Tracing A Decade Of Radical Racebike Experimentation
By Alan Cathcart

How to Repair a Small-Engine Lubrication System

Posted on December 28, 2011 by melwin23

Image via Wikipedia

Friction causes wear; it’s a law of physics. Small gas engines can wear out prematurely if moving parts aren’t lubricated. We’ll discuss how to reduce wear on your small engine and increase its useful life by servicing the lubrication system. Topics include the fuel-oil mixture for two-stroke engines and performing other lubrication services.

Always use the type and viscosity grade of oil recommended by the engine manufacturer. Lubricating oils and additives designed for four-stroke engines are not suitable for two-stroke engines.

Mixing Fuel-Oil for Two-Stroke Engines

Two-stroke engines are efficient. They only require a single rotation of the crankshaft to develop power. This simplicity requires economy in all engine systems, including lubrication. A two-stroke engine is lubricated by mixing oil with the gasoline. This fuel-oil mixture can be purchased as such, or you can mix it yourself. Here’s how to make a two-stroke engine fuel-oil mixture:

Step 1: Check the manufacturer’s recommendations for the specific ratio and grade of oil and fuel to be mixed.

Step 2: In a vented gas can used only for mixing, pour a specified amount and type of gasoline.

Step 3: Add the correct amount of recommended oil for the fuel-oil ratio. A gallon contains 128 ounces. A fuel-oil ratio of 50:1 means 50 ounces of fuel should have 1 ounce of oil added, or you should add about 2.5 ounces of recommended lubricating oil to every gallon of recommended gasoline. A 25:1 fuel-oil ratio requires about 5 ounces of oil per gallon of fuel. Also pour in any additives recommended by the manufacturer.

Step 4: Make sure all caps are securely fastened to the mixing gas can, and shake it to thoroughly mix the fuel and oil.

Step 5: Carefully pour the resulting fuel-oil mixture into the engine’s fuel tank.

Step 6: Whether you purchase fuel-oil mixed or mix it yourself, rotate the fuel tank in a circle a few times to remix the fuel and oil before each use.

Lubrication Service

Some small engines require additional lubrication, depending on their design and the tasks they perform. A riding lawn mower, for example, may require lubrication of the axles and steering box. Though this article can’t cover all possible lubrication service procedures, it can offer procedures that are easily adaptable to most small engines.

Lubrication service is the application of lubricating greases. Greases are simply petroleum products with higher viscosity or thickness than oils. A lubricating grease may have a grade as low as 60 (about twice as thick as 30 grade oil) to over 100. Common viscosities for lubricating greases are 80 and 90 grade. At these viscosities, lubricants have the density of toothpaste. Special tools called lube guns are used to apply lubricating greases. Professional repair shops use pressurized lube guns; the engine owner can apply lubricating greases with a ratchet lube gun. The greases are sold in tubes that fit into the lube gun. Here’s how to apply lubricating grease to small engine components:

Step 1: Check the owner’s manual for specific information on lubrication: where and with what.

Step 2: Apply the recommended grade of lubricating grease. Some components have fittings to which the end of the lube gun is attached. Others require that the top of a reservoir is opened and fluid added to a specific FULL point. Still other components require that a lubricant such as white grease be spread on the part by hand.

Caution: Make sure that lubricating greases do not touch electrical parts. Lubricants can conduct electricity, shorting out the system and potentially causing a fire.

A defective cooling system can ruin a small engine. Learn how to properly maintain and service a cooling system in the next section.

Do-it Your self – 7 motorcycle maintenance tips

Posted on December 17, 2011 by melwin23

BASIC MAINTENANCE TIPS :

The proper maintenance of a motorcycle engine is the key to motorcycle life. Keeping a record of all the manufacturer‘s maintenance recommendations will keep you from guessing when work was done to your motorcycle and what was done. Following the manufacturer’s maintenance schedule for your motorcycle will ensure it remains mechanically sound and improves performance. Here are tips that will help keep your motorcycle in good running condition.

Motorcycle Engine Oil

Change the engine oil at intervals of every 6 months or 3,000 miles. The primary function of motorcycle engine oil is to act as a lubricant. The oil also helps to reduce engine noise, keep other parts of your engine cool and is a seal for pistons. The oil must be of a good consistency so that it may function properly. The oil can’t be so thick that it can’t properly get in between the tight moving parts of your engine for lubrication. At the same time, the oil can’t be so thin that it can’t separate the parts. The type engine oil you use in your motorcycle is as important as the frequency at which it is changed.

Motorcycle Fuel

The type fuel that you put in your motorcycle is vital to the way it operates. Because of certain engine malfunctions, it is sometimes required that you use a higher grade fuel. Keep in mind that using a higher grade fuel for the sake of performance increase is not worth the effort. Performance and longevity are not increased because of the octane increase. Only use the grade of fuel that the manufacturer recommends.

Motorcycle Fluids

Changing your motorcycle fluids by the manufacturer’s guidelines is very important, especially when your motorcycle is still under warranty. Using the wrong fluid, such as automobile oil instead of the recommended oil for your type motorcycle, could void your warranty. Manufacturer’s replacement fluids can be purchased from your local dealership.

Motorcycle Chain

Visually inspect your chain twice a month or every 500-700 miles if your are not a frequent rider. Your chain’s function is to transfer power from the engine to the rear wheel. The chain will need to be cleaned and adjusted depending upon your riding to maintain safe operation. A defective chain can cause serious malfunction to your motorcycle and even injury to you as a rider.

Motorcycle Spark Plugs

Your spark plugs are essential to your motorcycle’s overall performance. It is important that before you remove the spark plugs, use a can of compressed air to blow in the hole that houses the plug. This will remove any dirt and debris from the hole so that nothing falls into the engine when the plug is removed.

Motorcycle Air Filter

If the air filter on your motorcycle is clogged from dirt and dust, your motorcycle will not be able to breathe properly. This will cause a loss of power and sub-standard performance from your motorcycle. Physically remove the air filter and inspect it for any clogging. If the filter is in bad repair, replace the filter at your earliest convenience to prevent other maintenance issues.

Home of the Lightning Electric Car

Posted on November 25, 2011 by melwin23

Hot Rod electric

Front view

The Lightning Electric car is the newest addition to the EnviroTech line up of quality products. The Lighting is an electric car (EV) with styling based on the sprint and indy cars of the 30’s and 40’s. With modern steering, brakes and suspension, and the super torque of its DC electric motor, the Lightning will change the way you envision hot rodding. Powered by a 156 volt DC motor, and 13-12 volt AC Delco deep cycle batteries the Lightning Electric Car will take you up to 40 miles between charges, and recharging takes only about $.30 worth of electricity. Speed and power are not sacrificed for this “green” conversion. The Lightning Electric Car goes from 0-60 in under five seconds and has a top speed over 100 miles.

Ideal for hot rod enthusiasts to use as a light commuter car to and from work, or a cruise to the hamburger stand, the Lightning Electric Car is the perfect modern solution.

side view

Make the Lightning the way you want it.

Complete cars are made to your specifications, with the highest quality manufacturing standards. If you are more of a do-it-yourselfer, you can also order individual components. Either way you will have our years of experience and technical expertise behind you through the duration of your project, and down the road to make sure you are completely satisfied with your purchase.

Rolling chassis complete with independent rear axle starting at $3,995. Fiberglass bodies starting at $4,200. Complete cars for as little at $28,000, minus the federal tax credit for a plug in electric car makes your total cost for a complete Lightning just over $20,000.

The Lightning Electric Car Features:

156 Volt DC Net Gain Racing Motor
Thirteen – 12 Volt Deep Cycle Batteries
1000 amp Net Gain Industrial Controller
Independent Rear Axle
Cantilevered “Indy” style internally mounted front shocks
Four Wheel Disc Brakes
Goodyear Assurance Fuel Max Tires
Up to 40 Mile Range Between Charges
Two to Four Hours for Full Charge (220v, 110v)
0 – 60 Under Five Seconds
Top Speed 100+ MPH

source : lightning electric car

Motorcycle Engine Oil :The proper use of the correct grade engine oils in motorcycles;

Posted on November 17, 2011 by melwin23

Source: sportrider.com
This is a very good two part article related to the proper use of the correct grade engine oils in motorcycles;especially those with wet clutches.

Oils Well That Ends Well, Part 1
Part One: What is motor oil really made of?

Editor’s Note: This is Part One of a special Sport Rider comparison test, where we unlock the mysteries and debunk some of the myths of motor oil. We examine just what goes into motor oil, why those ingredients are there and what it means for your engine. In the next issue, Part Two will feature a scientific analysis of all major motorcycle-specific motor oils, plus a wear and dyno test of specific oils to determine whether there is a power difference.
When motorcyclists discuss engine oil, they quickly polarize into two groups. There are those who think all oils are basically the same, and that anyone spending more for premium oils is wasting his money, and there are those who feel there is a difference and are willing to spend the money to get the best product available. However, both groups share a lack of scientific information allowing them to make an informed decision. To offer some insight into this heated topic and help you determine which oil is right for you, we’ve decided to delve into this outwardly simple-but very complex-product. In Part One of this two-part series, we’ll dissect the real what, how and whys of motor oil.

The first thing you need to know about motor oil is what it does for your engine. Motor oil actually has several purposes, some of which may surprise you. Obviously, lubrication is the main purpose. The oil serves as a layer of protection between the moving parts, just like shaving gel does between your skin and a razor.

However, oil also acts as a dispersant, which means it holds damaging stuff like dirt and metal particles suspended in the oil (rather than letting them settle to the bottom of the oil pan where they can be recirculated through the engine) so they can be removed by the oil filter. Then there is the job of corrosion retardant. By reacting with the nasty acids created by combustion, oil actually prevents these byproducts from damaging the internals of the engine. For instance, when combustion takes place, sulfur molecules in gasoline occasionally combine with air and water molecules, forming a vile brew called sulfuric acid. Left unchecked, this acid will eat away at internal engine compounds. Good oils, however, contain enough of the right additives like calcium, boron or magnesium to neutralize these acids.

Cooling is another important factor. Oil serves to cool hot spots inside an engine that regular coolant passages cannot reach. Since coolant usually only deals with the hottest parts of the engine, like the cylinders and cylinder head, there are many internal engine components that depend on oil for cooling as well as lubrication. For example, the transmission and clutch rely heavily on oil to regulate temperatures, since excessive heat expansion can change tolerances and cause clearance-related problems. Another area that uses oil for cooling purposes is the undersides of the pistons; with pistons becoming thinner for less weight, yet dealing with ever-increasing compression ratios, keeping the piston assembly cool is vitally important. Parts such as these can expose oil to extreme temperatures, so this is one reason that thermal stability is so important for motorcycle engines. We will do a specific test in Part Two to predict the oils’ ability to survive in extreme heat.

These three oils have the proper JASO label, which shows they have tested and passed the JASO certification standards. The MA standard is for high friction motorcycle applications, so you’ll know the oil is specifically tailored for use in your sportbike-not some econobox car.
Who is the API?
The American Petroleum Institute (or API) was established in 1919 as an industry trade association with one of its goals stated as “promot(ing) the mutual improvement of its members and the study of the arts and science connected with the oil and gas industry.” Today, the API impacts the consumer market through the development and licensing of engine oil industry standards. On most oil containers, you will find a small circular label that says “API” along with letters like SG, SH, etc. Each of these letters represents a very complex set of specifications and tests that have to be met in order for an oil to carry the API designation. When you see an oil with the API symbol, this means the company has paid a license fee to the API, and in turn the API has tested its product to ensure it meets the applicable standard. If the API grades are simply listed on the bottle without the circular API symbol, this means the company claims to meet the API standards, but has decided not to obtain API licensing. This process is very expensive, and therefore many smaller producers choose not to be members, even though their products may be good enough to pass.

Every few years the API releases a new standard that is often specified by auto manufacturers, with the changes usually aimed at achieving lower levels of friction to obtain higher fuel economy, and to deal with other emissions-related issues. This is a never-ending battle in the automobile industry, as stricter federal emission and fuel economy standards are being imposed on automobiles. The API works with the auto industry to ensure that the oils are doing everything possible to reach these goals.
The motorcycle industry followed the ever-changing API service designations until a few years ago, when the SJ designation lowered maximum levels of certain additives used to reduce metal-to-metal friction. (The latest API designation is SL.) Specifically, the maximum allowable phosphorous content was lowered from 0.12 percent to 0.10 percent due to its negative effect on some catalytic converters. An engine burning oil will pass this phosphorous through the exhaust system, resulting in damage to oxygen sensors and catalytic converters. Since the EPA requires all emissions-related parts to be covered under warranty for seven years, this was a major motivator for manufacturers to meet the new standard.

Who is the JASO?
The motorcycle OEMs felt that lower levels of phosphorous and the introduction of more friction modifiers (aimed at higher fuel economy in cars) was not in the best interest of motorcycle engines. Since phosphorous is an important antiwear component, lower levels could reduce the ability of oil to protect transmission gears, since motorcycles share engine oil with the gearbox. Plus, added levels of friction modifiers could cause problems with slipping clutches, as well as less than optimal performance of back-torque limiting devices that lessens wheel lock-up on downshifts.

Note that these labels list only the API and JASO standards in text form without the proper labels. This means the manufacturers claim their product meets or exceeds both standards, but haven’t paid the fee for licensing (and testing). Note that the process to carry the official labels is very expensive, so smaller oil manufacturers may choose not to obtain licensing, even though their products may pass the tests.
Rather than continue to rely on specifications dedicated to automobiles, the Japanese Automotive Standards Organization (or JASO) developed its own set of tests specifically for motorcycles. JASO now publishes these standards, and any oil company can label its products under this designation after passing the proper tests. JASO offers two levels of certification, MA (high friction applications) and MB (low friction applications). JASO requires that the entire product label be approved before it can carry its label. If a label does not have a box with a registration number above the MA or MB lettering, it could be nonapproved oil whose manufacturer claims its products meet JASO standards when it may not have actually passed the tests.

These standards also include a test specifically designed to measure the oil’s effect on clutch lock-up, as well as heat stability and several other factors related to motorcycle engines. Our advice here is pretty simple: Read your manual, and if it calls for an API SG oil, use that. Don’t substitute a higher API designation oil like SL, because it will contain less of some additives like phosphorus, and it may contain other additives that will yield higher fuel economy in a car but could cause slippage in your clutch. (More on that later.)

While it may not be the perfect answer, you can also be safe by selecting JASO-labeled oil, because you will know that it has passed a bank of tests developed by the motorcycle industry. A quick look in several 2002-’03 owner’s manuals showed that an ’03 Kawasaki ZX-12R and most Hondas were the only sportbikes in our shop carrying a mention of JASO.

What Are Base Stocks?
Motor oils start with a base oil mixed with various additives. These base oils often account for approximately 80 to 90 percent of the volume, and are therefore the backbone of oil. Everyone knows that some oils are petroleum-based and some synthetic, while others are labeled semi-synthetic. What does all this mean? Well, not as much as it used to, because the lines are now blurred in the case of synthetic oils.
For our purposes, petroleum oils are the most basic and least expensive oils on the market. They are created from refined crude oil and offer good properties, though they are generally not as heat resistant as semi-synthetics or full synthetics. On the other end of the spectrum are synthetic oils. A synthetic oil has been chemically reacted to create the desired properties. Semi-synthetics are a blend of the two base stocks.
The API groups oils into five major categories, each with different properties and production methods:

Group I: Solvent frozen mineral oil. This is the least processed of all oils on the market today and is typically used in nonautomotive applications, though some of it may find its way into low-cost motor oils.

Group II: Hydro-processed and refined mineral oil. This is the most common of all petroleum oils and is the standard component of most petroleum-based automotive and motorcycle engine oils.

Group III (now called synthetic): The oils start as standard Group I oils and are processed to remove impurities, resulting in a more heat-stable compound than possible as a standard Group I or II oil. Some examples are Castrol Syntec automotive oil and Motorex Top Speed. These are the lowest cost synthetics to produce, and generally do not perform as well as Group IV or V oils.

Group IV: Polyalphaolefin, commonly called PAOs. These are the most common of the full synthetic oils, and usually offer big improvements in heat and overall stability when compared to Group III oils. They are produced in mass quantities and are reasonably inexpensive for full-synthetic oils. Since they are wax-free they offer high viscosity indexes (low temperature pour point) and often require little or no viscosity modifiers. Examples include Amsoil and Motorex Power Synt.

Group V: Esters. These oils start their life as plant or animal bases called fatty acids. They are then converted via a chemical reaction into esters or diesters which are then used as base stocks. Esters are polar, which means they act like a magnet and actually cling to metals. This supposedly offers much better protection on metal-to-metal surfaces than conventional PAOs, which do not have this polar effect. These base stock oils also act as a good solvent inside the engine, translating into cleaner operation. Esters are the most expensive to produce, and oils manufactured with them usually cost much more. Due to this higher cost, many companies only fortify their oils with esters. Some examples are Bel-Ray EXS, Torco MPZ Synthetic and Maxum 4 Extra. Motul 300V, however, uses 100 percent ester as its base oil, and is one of the more expensive oils.

The grouping of these oils is the source of much controversy. One topic that has been debated is what can be labeled a “full synthetic oil.” In 1999, Mobil brought a complaint against Castrol for changing the base oil in its Syntec product. They had used a Group IV PAO, but had changed to a Group III base oil. Mobil contended that Group III oils were not really “synthetic oil” and should not be labeled as such. After many expert opinions were heard, the National Advertising Division of the Better Business Bureau sided with Castrol and said that Group III oils could be labeled synthetic. Since that time there has been a lot of growth in this product type due to its low cost and similar performance to traditional synthetics. Many traditionalists still argue that Group III oils are not true synthetic oils.

Additives to the oil
Additives are the other 10 to 20 percent of the product that help the base oil do things that it otherwise could not. Additives fall into several basic categories:

Detergents/Dispersants: These ensure that foreign materials in the oil stay in suspension to allow the filtration system to remove dirt or debris.

Corrosion Inhibitors: These prevent oil from deteriorating from the attack of free radicals or oxidation.

Antiwear: These are perhaps the most- discussed additives, which serve to protect the engine from metal-to-metal wear. Common antiwear additives are phosphorous and zinc. Other antiwear additives include friction modifiers like molybdenum disulphide (or moly).

Acid Neutralizers: Additives like calcium, magnesium and boron act to absorb acids created during combustion to protect the engine. They are typically indicated by the TBN (Total Base Number). A higher number means the oil should last longer and provide increased protection against combustion-based acids.

Other additives such as foam inhibitors, viscosity modifiers and antirust components may also be present in motorcycle oils. In particular, antifoaming additives are important due to the high RPMs that can create cavitation and starve bearings from necessary lubrication in the process.

Viscosity
If you ask someone with years of riding under his belt what viscosity oil he uses, he may answer “20W-50.” All multiviscosity oils carry two numbers. In simple terms, the first number is the oil’s viscosity when cold (32Fahrenheit/0Celsius), and the other is the oil’s viscosity at operating temperature (212F/100C); the “W” stands for “weight” or viscosity, which is simply the liquid’s resistance to flow. In other words, when the oil is cold it will flow like a 20-weight, but when hot it will act like a 50-weight. In order to overcome the natural thinning that occurs as oil heats up, a component known as a viscosity modifier is added. This is a complex polymer that swells due to heat, the net result being that the oil thins less.

Typically, synthetic oil contains less of this additive, or in some cases none at all due to its naturally higher viscosity index. This is another reason why they are better suited for the wide range of temperatures and riding conditions associated with motor-cycle use. Viscosity modifiers are one of the first additives that wear out in oil, and a big reason that some synthetic oil manufacturers claim longer service life. Since they are naturally a multigrade product without the chemical modification mineral oils require, synthetic oils will hold their viscosity grade longer.

The reason the old-timer may suggest thicker oil is because in older engines with higher tolerances, thicker oils were necessary to keep oil pressure up. Others believe the use of higher viscosity oils results in better protection because high-performance engines are harder on oil. This isn’t true in modern engines, and using oil thicker than specified can actually harm an engine. Internal oil passages and galleys may not be large enough to allow thicker oils to penetrate and flow as well, which can possibly cause starvation. In fact, many race teams use the thinnest oil possible to gain extra horsepower by lowering the parasitic losses that occur when using thicker-than-necessary oil. The higher film strength offered by synthetic base stocks helps racing engines survive even endurance races when running ultra-lightweight oils. Of course, these engines are typically rebuilt after each race, so we do not suggest using a racing oil in your streetbike. Refer to your owner’s manual and use the viscosity of oil corresponding to your riding conditions as specified by the manufacturer. The manuals often have a table with various temperatures allowing you to select the right viscosity.

Can synthetic oils cause my clutch to slip?
To answer this in one word: No. Clutch slippage is caused by many things, but the use of synthetic oil alone is usually not the culprit. The truth is that some bikes seem to suffer clutch slippage no matter what oil goes in them, while others run fine with any oil. This is most likely caused by factors other than the oil, such as the spring pressure, age and clutch plate materials. If you have a bike known for clutch problems, you may have to be more selective in your oil choices.Moly is often blamed for clutch slippage, and it can have an effect-but moly alone is not the problem. We wish there was a hard and fast rule to follow, but it is just not that easy. Simply put, you will have to try an oil and evaluate it. If you experience slippage with the new oil, and have not had problems before, it may be the oil. The plates and/or springs could also be worn to the point that they have finally started to slip. Simply change back to the previous oil and see what happens. You can also check the test data in next issue’s article to see if that particular oil has a significant amount of moly. If so, try one that does not have as much moly next time.

We talked to Mark Junge, Vesrah’s Racing representative, who has won numerous WERA national championships using Vesrah’s clutches. He said that in his years of engine work he has yet to see a slipping clutch that could be pinned on synthetic motor oil. Junge felt that nearly every time the clutch was marginal or had worn springs, the new oil just revealed a problem that already existed.

Stay tuned for Part Two: Analysis, Wear and Dyno tests
This is the first part in a two stage article, so please stay tuned to the next issue where we will reveal the test data from an analytical oil laboratory as well as the results of our dyno horsepower shootout, where we will have a face-off of two different products to see if changing oils can yield horsepower gains as some manufacturers claim.

Oils Well That Ends Well, Part 2
Part Two: Laboratory and Dyno Analysis

In the first portion of Sport Rider’s oil test (“Oils Well That Ends Well?” August 2003), we covered the overall makeup and functions of motor oil to give you a basic understanding of its role in the performance of your engine. In this portion-the second and final part of the article-we go into a detailed analysis and testing of 22 oils to see what makes them different from one another, including comparing motorcycle-specific oils to automotive products. We also run a dyno test to see if the claims of increased horsepower made by some oil producers are really true.

Spectrographic Analysis
Presented first is the spectrographic analysis of each of the tested oils. Using units of parts per million (ppm) to show the amount of additives in each product, this test utilizes an atomic emission spectrometer to measure the wavelength of light emitted from each oil sample as it is “ionized;” in simplistic terms, this is similar to sticking the oil into a microwave oven, then using a prism to split the light emitted as the oil burns. Since each element has its own light wavelength, a computer compares each light measurement to a standard emission, and then calculates the amount of that particular element.

We called on Analysts Inc. in Norcross, Georgia (Analysts, Inc., 800/241-6315), to perform the spectrographic analysis testing. An ISO-9002-certified facility (meaning their lab meets strict worldwide quality-control specifications), Analysts Inc. has been in business since 1960, and is considered one of the top oil-testing labs in the country. They are able to identify extremely small amounts of metals and additives, and in some cases can detect as little as one ppm. If you send them used oil for analysis, they can generate a metal contents report that will help you discover internal engine problems before they occur. Most large diesel fleets use this to determine maintenance schedules.

This type of analysis also reports the absolute viscosity of the oil, and the total base number (TBN). The TBN is determined by measuring the milligrams of acid neutralizer (potassium hydroxide) required to nullify all the acids present in a one gram sample of oil. Viscosity retention and TBN are very important in deciding when to change your oil. A TBN of three or less typically denotes a failure of the oil to absorb acids. Oils with a higher initial TBN are therefore better suited for longer change intervals, assuming the base oil is of sufficient quality to maintain its specified viscosity over time. The subjects of base oil quality and viscosity retention are very complex, and are discussed later.

These elements are the most commonly discussed because they are one of motor oil’s most important components. Several additives fall into this group, including phosphorous. The maximum level of phosphorous allowed in some automotive oils has been reduced by the new API standards, due to its effect on catalytic converters. Zinc is another additive in this group, as is molybdenum, usually referred to as moly. These antiwear additives serve as a back-up to the oil film in protecting engine components. They are activated by heat and pressure, forming a thin layer between metal parts that would otherwise come in direct contact, preventing permanent engine wear.

Looking at the graphs, it’s interesting to note a wide variation in additive amounts. For instance, examining phosphorous levels in the antiwear additive graph (remembering the API limitations) shows that two automotive oils contain approximately 1000 ppm (Valvoline and Castrol Syntec), while the Mobil 1 product contains 1391 ppm. The average of the motorcycle-specific oils is 1322 ppm; the automotive oils average 1157 ppm. The Maxima Maxum products have the highest levels overall, with almost three times the amount found in the lowest product tested. The products with the lowest levels are Silkolene Comp 4, Yamalube and Honda HP4.

A similar correlation can be seen with zinc. The Maxima products again show the highest levels at almost 2000 ppm, while the Yamalube and Silkolene products again end up on the bottom of this list. The difference here between automotive oils and motorcycle-specific products is not as great, presumably because this additive is not regulated by the API. In fact, Valvoline is the only auto oil containing less than 1400 ppm. While the average motorcycle-specific product contains 1414 ppm, the automotive oils average 1328 ppm-not a huge difference.

Moly is often referred to as a friction modifier, but it is actually a solid metal dispersed in some oils. Because it has such a high melting temperature (4730 F versus 2795 F for iron), it works great as a high-temperature, high-pressure antiwear agent. Some claim that because moly is so slick, it can cause clutch slippage. In fact, some motorcycle manufacturers specify oil without moly due to this problem. The moly issue is such that Honda offers its HP4 both with and without it. Looking at the moly graph data, however, shows that even Honda’s “moly-free” product contains 71 ppm. Many of the products contain less than five ppm of moly, which is the threshold measurement on this test (meaning any amount less than five ppm will not be detected). Both Torco oils contain a significant dose of moly, while the Maxum Ultra and Motul 300V Factory contain far less. The Mobil 1 automotive oil contains 92 ppm, while the MX4T motorcycle-specific version has an undetectable amount. Only six of the 19 motorcycle oils we tested use moly at all. Those that do, however, average 298 ppm. Considering that many oils contain five ppm or less, 298 ppm is a significant dose.

One common claim is that motorcycle oils have specific additives that are more suited for motorcycle engines. Based on an average of the three automotive oils we tested, the bike oils do in fact contain more of everything except calcium and boron. Note that the average moly content, which is often the friction modifier of choice, is higher in the motorcycle oils than the car oils mainly due to the three bike oils that use an extremely high moly content.

Acid Neutralizers
We charted the three most common additives (boron, calcium and magnesium) used to neutralize acids produced inside an engine during combustion. In this category, we can see that the car and bike oils are different in some cases. Every company seems to agree that some dosage of calcium is required. The highest amount is Amsoil at 4843 ppm, which explains its very high TBN of 14.42. Amsoil does not use significant dosages of either magnesium or boron, though; many other oils use both of these to bolster their acid-fighting ability. Maxum Ultra contains only 986 ppm of calcium, but supplements that with the highest dose of magnesium in the test at 1275 ppm. The Mobil MX4T product uses 699 ppm of magnesium and 221 ppm of boron. Another difference between the auto and bike products offered by Mobil is the use of magnesium. Mobil 1 automobile oil contains only 33 ppm of magnesium.

Another common claim is that the higher price of motorcycle-specific synthetic oils allows oil manufacturers to use not only better and more heat-resistant base stocks (as shown in the heat aging data), but also more additives. Our averaged data shows that in general, the synthetic oils contain as much or more of each additive. Note, however, that we only tested two motorcycle-specific petroleum oils, and results could vary with more oils tested.

Looking at overall averages, the bike oils have an average of 1986 ppm of calcium versus the car oils’ 2702 ppm. While the bike oils average 296 ppm of magnesium, the car oils muster only 54 ppm. Since many of the bike oils do not use any boron, their average is only 96 ppm compared to the car oils’ 116 ppm. However, looking only at bike oils that use boron as part of their additive package, the average is 253 ppm. The bike and car oils are clearly different in this category.

It’s pretty obvious which of these products should do the best job of keeping corrosive acids in check when looking at the TBN. Topping the list is Amsoil, both Motul products and the automotive oil Castrol Syntec. A lower TBN does not mean the oil is bad, it just means that the drain-interval potential is not as great. If you change your oil every 1000-2000 miles, then you shouldn’t be concerned with this value. Others should take at least a cursory look at this category, however.

It’s interesting to note a trend toward longer oil-change intervals in the automotive world. For example, BMWs now come with factory-proprietary synthetic oil, and the on-board computer usually suggests oil changes every 15,000 miles or so. However, BMW engines have oil sumps larger (their 2.5L six-cylinder holds seven quarts) than most similarly sized engines, as well as high-capacity oil filters. Mercedes-Benz follows a similar plan, using full synthetic oil with a change interval of 10,000-16,000 miles. Being the skeptical type, we tested oil from a BMW engine at 7500 miles, only to find the oil within viscosity and all other standard values-meaning it could have been left in longer.

Don’t let fancy colors influence your opinion of an oil’s quality or sophistication-some are just dyes that quickly burn off. Note how this sample of the Motorex PowerSyn synthetic oil quickly loses its green hue after just one hour in the heat test.

Although not the final word on an oil’s overall quality, some oils showed marked degradation in color during the heat test. Note the nasty coloration of the Torco T4R sample in the post-test tin.
The truth is that engine oils are better than ever with regard to base stocks, as well as viscosity improvers and acid neutralizers. If you don’t have a 12-month riding season, you should add an extra oil change before you winterize your bike to prevent that used oil (with corrosive acid buildup) from sitting and possibly damaging your engine internals. As long as your engine isn’t highly stressed, whether through competition or extreme mileage, our suggestion is to simply follow the change interval specified in your owner’s manual, and spend more time riding and less time worrying. Of course, this assumes that your engine is in good mechanical condition; problems like fuel or coolant diluting the oil could mean disaster a lot sooner than 1500 miles.

Evaporative Heat Stability Test
The oil inside your engine is subjected to an extreme environment. Sure, the coolant-temperature gauge may only show 200 F, but there are many internal engine parts that become far hotter. In order to determine each oil’s ability to survive in such a climate, we subjected samples to a test commonly known as the Noack method. This test takes an oil sample and cooks it at 250 C (the estimated temperature of the piston-ring area, which is the hottest an oil should get) for one hour. Before and after the exposure, the sample is carefully weighed on a precise laboratory scale. Because parts of some oils are unstable at these temperatures, they burn off during the test, and that loss can be accurately measured.

The higher the percentage of weight retained (meaning less oil has burned off), the better. As you can see in the charts, there is quite a difference between the best and worst oils. The top product on this test is the Mobil 1 car oil at 96.1 percent. What is not so clear is that Group III oils (synthetics processed from a mineral-base stock) like Castrol Syntec and Motorex Top Speed test about as well as Group IV (PAO synthetics) and V (ester synthetics) products such as Motul, Bel Ray, Maxum and Torco. This shows that Group III oils are getting better and more heat stable (i.e., using better base stocks) for these applications than they were a few years ago.

As expected, the petroleum-based oils such as BelRay EXL, both Valvoline oils and the Yamalube and Torco synthetic blends are on the low end of the scale. Proving how good some synthetic blends are, top blend performer Castrol GPS actually out-performs one of the full synthetic oils (BelRay EXS). In general, however, the full synthetic oils are the winners here, with an average value of 93 percent, compared to the synthetic blends at 89 percent and the dinosaur oils at 86 percent.

We suggest you look at this data carefully and determine your needs before picking an oil for your bike. While not the only important factor, heat stability is one of the top issues because most sportbikes are tuned to the highest levels of performance possible, usually generating intense heat in the process. Engine oil must be able to survive these temperatures and not evaporate when you need it most.

We were as surprised as anyone that just changing oil can produce a horsepower boost. Both the R1 and GSX-R1000 posted some significant gains in midrange and top-end, and were gaining power with every run until coolant temps got a little too hot. Before you go rushing to buy this stuff, however, check out the viscosity retention test.

Dyno Test
Some oil manufacturers and their representatives claim that using their product will result in more horsepower. These are special ultra-lightweight-viscosity racing synthetic oils that are said to reduce the parasitic drag that oil has on an engine’s internal reciprocating components. We decided to put these claims to the test-an actual dynamometer test. Two of the full synthetic oils in this test make these horsepower claims on their labels: Maxima Maxum Ultra (in 0W-30 and 5W-30) and Motul Factory Line 300V (in 5W-30). We took two open-class sportbikes-a Suzuki GSX-R1000 and a Yamaha YZF-R1-and ran them with common off-the-shelf Valvoline 10W-40 automobile mineral oil to set a baseline dyno run. That oil was drained and replaced with the 0W-30 Maxum Ultra in the Suzuki, and the 5W-30 Motul 300V in the Yamaha. After about 15 miles of running to get the oil fully circulated through the engine, the bikes were then dynoed again.

Lo and behold, both the Suzuki and Yamaha posted horsepower gains. While not an earth-shattering boost in power, the gains were far beyond common run variations, and weren’t restricted to the very top end. The GSX-R1000 posted an increase of 3.3 horsepower on top, with some noticeable midrange gains as well; even more interesting was that the power steadily increased for several dyno runs (as the coolant temp increased). The Yamaha responded nearly as well, with a 2.7 horsepower boost on top. It should also be noted that while riding both bikes, there was a noticeable ease in shifting with the synthetic oils compared to the automobile mineral oil. Pretty impressive for just changing oil, in our opinion.

But before you go rushing to buy these products, it should be noted that these are racing oils, and, despite manufacturer claims of viscosity retention performance identical to standard viscosity oils, are made to be changed on a much more frequent basis. You should take a close look at the Tapered Roller Shear Test that demonstrates an oil’s ability to maintain viscosity over time.

Four-Ball Wear Test
With an eye toward evaluating oil’s ability to lubricate under extreme pressure conditions, we picked a few candidates and ran them through the “Four-Ball Wear Test” (officially designated ASTM D-4172). To conduct this test, we enlisted the help of the Southwest Research Institute in San Antonio, Texas (www.swri.org; 210/684-5111). SwRI is a huge nonprofit independent testing and engineering firm with an entire group of people dedicated to motorcycle-related products.

This test is used to determine the wear properties of engine oil in sliding contact (such as a piston sliding against a cylinder wall). Three half-inch-diameter ball bearings are placed in a triangular fixture, with a fourth half-inch ball in the center (in contact with the other three) held in place with a clamp. The ***** are then immersed in the test lubricant while the top ball is spun at 1800 rpm for a period of one hour with a prescribed load of 40 kg (88 lbs.) and a constant temperature of 75 C (161 F). The “wear scar” on the three lower ball bearings is then carefully measured (in millimeters) using a microscope and averaged. The smaller the wear scar, the better the protection.

Because this test is expensive, we could not test every product listed in the spectrographic analysis, so we picked a few we thought would reveal the most information. We chose the Castrol GTX 10W-40 automotive oil because it is a simple Group II mineral-oil product that is widely used and inexpensive. As an example of motorcycle-specific oils, we picked the popular Mobil 1 MX4T motorcycle oil in 10W-40. It is a moderately priced full synthetic oil (approximately $8.99 per quart), and should represent all the technology and economy of scale that a large oil producer like Exxon/Mobil can offer. We also chose the Amsoil Group IV motorcycle oil. Amsoil makes product claims related to the performance of its oil on this test, so we decided to see if they could live up to their claims.

The four-ball wear testing did not show the huge variation expected. All of these oils basically perform the same. With any test there is some variation from sample to sample, and this data is so close we have to call it a tie, which means all these oils in their new, virgin state do a good job of protecting against sliding friction wear. Incidentally, Amsoil did perform up to the test claims stated on its label.

Tapered Roller Shear Test
We decided to conduct some additional testing aimed at evaluating an oil’s ability to withstand the shearing loads present in a motorcycle gearbox (but not in the typical automotive engine). One of the claims made by most motorcycle-specific oil producers is that motorcycles present a different set of conditions than typical cars do, and that therefore you should spend more money to get oil formulated specifically for this environment. The meshing of transmission gears is said to shear or tear oil polymers over time, resulting in the degradation of oil viscosity and severely reducing its performance. As we stated earlier, this may not be so critical if you frequently change your oil. However, if you run longer than standard intervals, this oil property is something to strongly consider.

The test we selected to measure this effect is officially called the “Tapered Roller Bearing Test” (CEC L-45-99), commonly called TB-20. Recent trials have shown that this test provides the best correlation to actual performance compared to other industry shear tests. For the TB-20 test, a tapered bearing fitted into a four-ball test machine spins submerged in 40 mL (1.3 fluid ounces) of lubricant at 60 C (140 F) at a constant speed for 20 hours. The viscosity of the used fluid is measured and compared to the new/original viscosity, and the percentage of change compared to the original viscosity is reported. The higher the number, the more viscosity loss the oil experienced during the test.

We picked Valvoline 10W-40 automotive, Motul 300V 5W-40 Factory line, Mobil MX4T 10W-40 and Motul 300V 10W-40 oils for this test. Part of the analysis also involves the testing of a reference oil with a known viscosity performance in order to measure the variation between tests. In our case the reference oil had a total variation of 2.5 percent. This means that differences of 2.5 percent or less should be judged as the same, and that these small differences are related to the test method rather than product differences.

The actual viscosity raw data test results are expressed in centistokes (cSt), the scientific unit of viscosity measurement. However, after the percentage of viscosity loss column, we have converted the centistokes to an approximation of SAE grade to give you an idea of how much viscosity breakdown has occurred.

The various oils show large differences in their ability to endure this difficult test. The one commonly available automotive mineral oil tested suffered a 41 percent loss. While this limited data does not conclude that all mineral-based automotive oils are bad, it is definitely not a good sign. Looking at the motorcycle-specific oils, it’s notable that the Motul 5W-40 version does not hold up nearly as well as the 10W-40 version (in fact, slightly worse than the auto oil). Motul and Maxima both claim that their ultra-lightweight-viscosity oils would last as long as normal 10W oils. Because we only tested the Motul version, we cannot say for sure that the Maxima Maxum Ultra would suffer the same loss. Yet our dyno test shows that both these oils post a horsepower gain. We consider ultra-lightweight racing oils such as 0W and 5W a special category of race products that should be changed on a strict regimen. Before you decide to run them, you need to weigh the risk of viscosity loss versus horsepower gains and make your own decision. Until more data convinces us otherwise, we would stick to something more practical for the street.

Conclusions
With all this testing data (and expense), you’d think making a clear-cut decision as to which oil is best would be easy. In the case of engine oils, however, there are too many products and variables that go into this equation. Due to the financial reasons stated earlier, not every test was run on every product, so crystal-clear conclusions aren’t in the picture. You must weigh all the data we have made available; for instance, the fact that some oils may absorb acids better, but may not handle high heat as well. Or that while the four-ball wear test shows that particular automobile and motorcycle-specific oils perform identically, the heat and viscosity shear tests show otherwise.

We did, however, unequivocally answer a few questions. For one, most name-brand motorcycle-specific oils are indeed different than common automotive oils, even within the same brand, debunking a common myth. Mobil One automotive oil is definitely different than its motorcycle-specific version. The same is true for the three oils provided by Castrol, showing that both companies have different goals when formulating their automotive and motorcycle products. Whether they perform better-despite the data we’ve gathered-is still a matter of opinion. Another manufacturer, on the other hand, appears to have selected the same additives in both of its offerings, which begs the question: Are they actually identical and simply relabeled?

Once again, the final decision is up to you. It’s your bike and your hard-earned money-so only you can make the decision whether to spend the extra bucks for full synthetic motorcycle oil or simple mineral-based car oil. Review the data we have presented, and select the product that is most suited to your bike and riding style.

This article originally appeared in the October, 2003 issue of Sport Rider.

10 Important Points to Read if You Want to Save Fuel

Posted on November 4, 2011 by melwin23

Are you a biker who wakes up every morning and talking to your mirror about compensating your fuel expenses? Well here is something to relieve you from the stress.
If you see a bike’s specification there will be a section about the vehicle’s torque @ certain rpm. Torque denotes the pulling force that the vehicle can offer at that particular engine speed. Every engine has certain rpm range where it can offer maximum torque. Try to keep below that range (not too low) so that you don’t burn a lot of fuel.
Clutch riding / half clutch tends to wear out the clutch facing quickly. This considerably reduces the power transmitted from the engine. Some adjust the play to half clutch owing to the reason that it is easier to drive in slow moving traffic, but they won’t realize that they are doing it at the cost of frequent fuel refills and clutch replacement.
Selection of appropriate gear is mandatory. Under-gearing / over-gearing are not good friends of fuel economy. Riding in higher gears at very low speeds (by clutch partially engaged) and lower gears at high speeds tends to draw more fuel. So don’t hesitate to shift gears appropriately.
Starting earlier to work/college will also help saving fuel indirectly. As the peak hour approaches the traffic density increases and it demands frequent stops and crawling speed. So why waste your precious time and fuel?
Always ensure that your vehicle’s transmission is sufficiently lubricated. This is because if there is more friction between the parts the engine will draw more fuel to compensate your speed demand. Also friction is not healthy exercise to the parts.
The engine can not only be used for moving the vehicle but also to slow it down. This is calledengine braking When the throttle is released only idling amount of fuel will be supplied to engine and the power will be transmitted from wheels to the engine. Thus the vehicle slows down due to the resistance offered by the engine. There are some places to use this phenomenon like when you are about to stop for an obstacle which is say some 10-50 meters (Note: this range depends on your speed) ahead of you just release the throttle rather than breaking hard near it and let the ‘engine braking’ work its magic (can also be employed in slow moving traffic). You can also down shift if you need to. This thereby reduces unwanted fuel consumption and also saves brakes from wearing out.
Don’t have your head lamps turned unnecessarily ON which in turn demands more fuel by the engine to charge the battery/run the alternator. Unwanted electrical accessories can also be avoided.
Make sure that your vehicle’s idling speed is set as per the manufacturer’s specification. If set higher intakes excess fuel during idling and if set lower engine tends to stall frequently this in turn needs richer mixture to start the vehicle.
At times when you have to wait in a traffic signal for more than 30 secs switch OFF your engine. If you have self starter try alternating between kick starter also to avoid heavy load acting on battery frequently.
Above all these maintain a log book about your fuel refills, type of journey distance covered per journey (even if it is very short), fuel consumption per liter to know about your driving performance so that you can improve further.

Let me hope that these points will at least save you a rupee per day. Also you are indirectly reducing the density of polluted air for others.

courtesy

Grease n Gasoline

http://hydro-carbons.blogspot.com/ Daily updates on cars / motorcycles : Custom designs , concepts , new launch , vintage , Motor racing

Category Archives: engine oil

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