Top 50 MPG Popular Motorcycles:

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This is the list of motorcycles with high fuel efficiency – mileage 

Lifan 200 Sport : from 135 to 179 MPG


Yamaha TW200 : from 121 to 160 MPG

Honda 125 Varadero : from 119 to 158 MPG

Honda 200 Twinstar : from 119 to 158 MPG

Honda XL185 : from 119 to 158 MPG

Honda XL250S : from 116 to 153 MPG

Kawasaki Ninja EX250R : from 116 to 153 MPG

Yamaha Virago 250 : from 114 to 151 MPG

Honda Nighthawk 250 : from 113 to 149 MPG

Yamaha 125 Virago : from 111 to 147 MPG

Hyosung GV250 : from 109 to 145 MPG

Honda XL500 : from 105 to 138 MPG

BMW F650GS : from 101 to 134 MPG

Suzuki Intruder VL125 : from 100 to 132 MPG

Yamaha XV535 Virago : from 100 to 132 MPG

Buell Blast : from 98 to 130 MPG

Honda CMX 250 : from 97 to 128 MPG

Kawasaki Ninja 500R : from 95 to 126 MPG

Yamaha YZF600R : from 95 to 126 MPG

Yamaha XJ550 Seca : from 93 to 124 MPG

Honda Shadow VLX : from 92 to 121 MPG

Kawasaki KZ550 : from 89 to 117 MPG

Suzuki LS650 Savage : from 89 to 117 MPG

Suzuki GS425 : from 87 to 115 MPG

Suzuki S50 Boulevard : from 87 to 115 MPG

Suzuki V-Strom DL650 : from 87 to 115 MPG

Honda Shadow Aero : from 85 to 113 MPG

Suzuki Marauder 250 : from 85 to 113 MPG

Honda CB350 : from 84 to 111 MPG

Honda CX500 : from 84 to 111 MPG

Yamaha XJ900 Seca : from 84 to 111 MPG

Yamaha XS650 : from 84 to 111 MPG

Kawasaki GPX250 : from 82 to 109 MPG

Kawasaki Vulcan 800 Classic : from 82 to 109 MPG

Suzuki C90 Boulevard : from 82 to 109 MPG

Suzuki GS500 : from 82 to 109 MPG

BMW R850R : from 81 to 107 MPG

Honda CB400T Hawk : from 81 to 107 MPG

Honda CX500C : from 81 to 107 MPG

Honda V30 Magna : from 81 to 107 MPG

Kawasaki 125 Eliminator : from 81 to 107 MPG

Kawasaki 454 LTD : from 81 to 107 MPG

Kawasaki EN500 Vulcan : from 81 to 107 MPG

Kawasaki KLR650 : from 81 to 107 MPG

Kawasaki Vulcan 1500 : from 81 to 107 MPG

Suzuki C50 Boulevard : from 81 to 107 MPG

Suzuki Katana GSX 750 : from 81 to 107 MPG

Suzuki S83 Boulevard : from 81 to 107 MPG

Yamaha FJ600 : from 81 to 107 MPG

Yamaha FZ6 : from 81 to 107 MPG

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Hypermile your motorcycle up to – No BS

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The hypermiling techniques discussed in: Riding Your Bike For Maximum MPG can be implemented by any rider to obtain an immediate 20 to 40% increase in fuel economy. However in these desperate times when a trip to the gas station can cost more than a week’s groceries, some motorcyclists may want to wring even more miles from each mind- and wallet-numbingly expensive gallon.


Extreme hypermiling involves applying techniques which are much more radical than the typical common sense “conventional wisdom” tips to increase fuel mileage. However, these extreme hypermiling processes can return a remarkable increase in fuel economy.

Here are the top five extreme hypermiling procedures that any motorcyclist anywhere can apply to skyrocket your MPG. These techniques are effective with all motorcycles, from the weeniest 125cc commuter single cylinder to the most powerful 2 litre V-twin. When you consider that these techniques can squeeze 179 MPG from a motorcycle (not a scooter, but a real motorcycle), and even up to 113 MPG from a modern 750 like a Honda Shadow Aero they are definitely worth considering!


179 MPG… that’s about $30 in gas even with today’s prices to get from New York City to Miami!!!


Important! All of these have significant if not outright compromising safety considerations and may even be illegal in some jurisdictions. They should not be implemented without clear and comprehensive understanding of the severe ramifications.


1) Adjust your carburetor’s throttle lever so that it can only open up to half of its normal travel. This will limit your maximum revs and acceleration. Remember that you won’t have the power to do all the things you easily do now, like pass on the highway!


2) Change your handlebars to clipons. I hate those blasted low bars that make me feel like I’m caught halfway in a pushup, but lowering your arm position will drop your body down to the tank of the bike and considerably decrease your bike’s overall aerodynamic drag.


3) Cover your radiator. On watercooled motorcycles, you can cover the radiator with a piece of cardboard to keep your engine warmer and thus more efficient. Not a good idea to seal it hermetically with duct tape, nor is it a wise choice for stop and go rush hour commuting in August in Phoenix.


Now onto the two extreme hypermiling techniques which provide by far the greatest MPG advantage while at the same time providing by far the greatest chance that you’ll end up as a hood ornament on an SUV.


4) Use the kill switch. Unlike automobile drivers, we motorcyclists have an easily accessible kill switch. You can hit that kill switch when coasting and especially downhills, then while holding the clutch in and in an appropriate gear, turn the kill switch back on, release the clutch and restart the engine without using the starter. It is a procedure that when well rehearsed can be smooth and safe, and when it is done without due care and skill can cause you to flip your bike. Also note that in some motorcycles, you will lose braking power if your engine is off.


5) Only for hyperexperienced riders! Draft. This can kill you deader than almost any other hypermiling technique, but anyone who has ridden behind an 18 wheeler on the highway will testify that the “draft air zone” which is created by the wake of the truck can extend back well over 100 feet. If you don’t get distracted and your life insurance policy is paid up, this technique can drastically increase your highway MPG.


Should you implement at least some of these techniques and manage to not be turned into a splat mark on the asphalt, you could legitimately expect these MPG ratings from the 
However, you may find that you’d be happy maybe cutting back on your riding, or scrimping on groceries, as some of those extreme hypermiling procedures can present a clear and present danger to your continued health and longevity! Be careful out there. Remember that saving money on fuel isn’t going to be worth much if you’re dead! 
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Yamaha shows retro lightweight 125cc motorcycle that gets 220 mpg

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Fuel efficient retro motorcycle from Yamaha 

Yamaha’s press conference at the Tokyo Motor Show today was a genuine sign of the times. Four brand new world premiers were shown. The largest internal combustion engine amongst them was a 250cc model with fat tires 


 designed to go anywhere – the SUV of motorcycles was the claim.


There was also a three-wheeled electric commuter, a fold-up electric pedal-assist bicycle and, wait for it, an 80 km/l (226 mpg Imperial or 188 U.S. miles/gallon) retro 125cc commuter that’s somewhere between a bicycle and motorcycle – it weighs just 80 kg and it is beautiful. 


Firstly, the I’ve always been a big fan of 125cc four-strokes – it happened about 30 plus years ago when I was testing a 125cc Kawasaki for a motorcycle magazine and at the end of a week of valve-bouncing and lane-splitting, found I’d managed close to 100mpg for the daily commute. It was around the time of the first energy crisis and I figured that I’d found the answer.


If a high-revving, OHC four-stroke could achieve close to a 100 mpg when being shamelessly mistreated, what sort of economy could it deliver if it were tuned for economy, ridden gently and placed in a suitably lightweight frame?


Yamaha’s Y125 appears to answer that question. Modeled on Yamaha’s first motorcycle, the YA-1, the Yamaha Y125 is a modern interpretation of that motorcycle. Though the YA-1 was itself a copy of the German DKW RT125 and was powered by a two-stroke engine, I am certain readers will agree the Yamaha concept has faithfully updated the YA-1.

The YA-1 weighed around 140 kilograms and produced 5.6 bhp @ 5000 rpm for what was at the time, a highly competitive motorcycle not just on the road, but on the racetrack.

The big difference with the Y125 is in the fuel consumption. Yamaha claims the bike uses its “world” 125cc four-stroke motor, though the engine certainly seems to have been lightened and polished and beautified, and heaven knows what they’ve done with the internals.


The Y125 uses what is by today’s standards, close to a bicycle frame with sophisticated lightweight suspension and similarly, the brakes are also featherweight. The end result is a bike that tips the scales at 80 kg – just a tad more than half the original YA-1’s total.


At this stage, it’s a concept but who knows what might happen simply because it’s such an enticing bike that takes everything back to basics. Sure, the lights are LED and the rear wheel is driven by a belt rather than a chain, but nothing seems like rocket science – it’s just a very traditional basic design updated with modern day computer design and material science, and it is an absolute celebration of the form of the original Yamaha.


The “world” motor Yamaha claims is used in the bike produces double the horsepower of the original YA-1, so the Y125 will never be embarrassed for acceleration or top speed on urban roads. The 80kg weight will ensure it is far quicker than your average scooter to ride, and the fuel consumption of 80 km/l (226 mpg Imperial or 188 U.S. miles/gallon) is testimony to what can be done when you really want to achieve economy in a two-wheeler.
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Source: yamaha motor company 

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10 Important Points to Read if You Want to Save Fuel

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Are you a biker who wakes up every morning and talking to your mirror about compensating your fuel expenses? Well here is something to relieve you from the stress.
If you see a bike’s specification there will be a section about the vehicle’s torque @ certain rpm. Torque denotes the pulling force that the vehicle can offer at that particular engine speed. Every engine has certain rpm range where it can offer maximum torque. Try to keep below that range (not too low) so that you don’t burn a lot of fuel.
Clutch riding / half clutch tends to wear out the clutch facing quickly. This considerably reduces the power transmitted from the engine. Some adjust the play to half clutch owing to the reason that it is easier to drive in slow moving traffic, but they won’t realize that they are doing it at the cost of frequent fuel refills and clutch replacement.
Selection of appropriate gear is mandatory. Under-gearing / over-gearing are not good friends of fuel economy. Riding in higher gears at very low speeds (by clutch partially engaged) and lower gears at high speeds tends to draw more fuel. So don’t hesitate to shift gears appropriately.
Starting earlier to work/college will also help saving fuel indirectly. As the peak hour approaches the traffic density increases and it demands frequent stops and crawling speed. So why waste your precious time and fuel?
Always ensure that your vehicle’s transmission is sufficiently lubricated. This is because if there is more friction between the parts the engine will draw more fuel to compensate your speed demand. Also friction is not healthy exercise to the parts.
The engine can not only be used for moving the vehicle but also to slow it down. This is calledengine braking When the throttle is released only idling amount of fuel will be supplied to engine and the power will be transmitted from wheels to the engine. Thus the vehicle slows down due to the resistance offered by the engine. There are some places to use this phenomenon like when you are about to stop for an obstacle which is say some 10-50 meters (Note: this range depends on your speed) ahead of you just release the throttle rather than breaking hard near it and let the ‘engine braking’ work its magic (can also be employed in slow moving traffic). You can also down shift if you need to. This thereby reduces unwanted fuel consumption and also saves brakes from wearing out.
Don’t have your head lamps turned unnecessarily ON which in turn demands more fuel by the engine to charge the battery/run the alternator. Unwanted electrical accessories can also be avoided.
Make sure that your vehicle’s idling speed is set as per the manufacturer’s specification. If set higher intakes excess fuel during idling and if set lower engine tends to stall frequently this in turn needs richer mixture to start the vehicle.
At times when you have to wait in a traffic signal for more than 30 secs switch OFF your engine. If you have self starter try alternating between kick starter also to avoid heavy load acting on battery frequently.
Above all these maintain a log book about your fuel refills, type of journey distance covered per journey (even if it is very short), fuel consumption per liter to know about your driving performance so that you can improve further.

Let me hope that these points will at least save you a rupee per day. Also you are indirectly reducing the density of polluted air for others.

courtesy

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