Category Archives: repair
LEOVINCE SBK SILENCER PACKING MAINTENANCE AND REPLACEMENT
The products of the SBK range utilize thermally and mechanically resistant fiberglass wool, but
due to the nature and function of the silencer itself, they are liable to wear.
As described in paragraph 3.00 of the General Guarantee conditions in the booklet
accompanying every LeoVince system, regular maintenance must be performed on the silencer
(muffler) packing.
It is necessary to periodically check the integrity of the packing material. This can initially be
done by listening for excessive exhaust noise. If the exhaust tone is uncharacteristically loud or
metallic/hollow sounding, most likely the packing needs to be replaced. The average duration of
the packing material obviously varies according to the load applied, riding style of the user and
engine size and configuration. For example, a large single or twin cylinder bike will tend to
require shorter packing intervals than a 4 cylinder bike of the same displacement. That being said
it is not uncommon for singles and twins to go 15k miles between repacks and 4 cylinders to go
20k or more due to the high quality dense packing used in LeoVince SBK products.
If the packing material is found to have deteriorated, it should be replaced before this
deterioration affects the heat insulation properties towards the exterior of the silencer. If this is
not done, in time there can be a risk of damaging the carbon mounting brackets/ silencer sleeves
and possibly body panels/fairings on the motorcycle.
NOTE: The replacement of the muffler packing must be done exclusively with original
LeoVince spare parts and by following the assembly instructions provided in the pack.
INSTRUCTIONS FOR REPLACING PACKING MATERIAL INSIDE LEOVINCE SBK
SILENCERS
1. Make sure the silencer is at room temperature before beginning work, and remove the
silencer from the exhaust system and motorcycle.
2. Using a 7/32 drill bit (preferably cobalt or titanium coated) drill the rivets out of the front
end cap only.
3. Slide the silencer sleeve and rear end cap off as one piece and remove the old packing
material wrapped around the mufflers core. Be sure not to remove the steel wire mesh
tube around the silencers core as this will be re-used.
4. It is also recommended to drill the rivets out of the rear cap and remove it from the sleeve
as well to help facilitate the final re-assembly of the silencer later.
5. Proceed to wrap the first layer of packing material around the muffler core (perforated
metal tube). This material is shown on the right in the first photo and marked with a
number “1” (Your SBK repack contains 2 layers of packing material number “1”). In
order to achieve the correct balance between duration and noise level it is essential to not
put too much pressure on the fiberglass wool while wrapping it around the perforated
core.
6. Next, wrap the second layer of packing material around the perforated muffler core (same
as the first layer). Again, be sure not to put too much pressure on the material as you
wrap it, as it does not need to be excessively tight.
7. Trim off any packing that protrudes past the end of the perforated core and secure the
whole assembly using masking tape. Be sure to wrap the tape all the way around the
circumference so that it does not come loose.
8. Repeat the same procedure (steps 6-7) with the glossy outside layer of packing material
(material labeled number “2” from the first photo. Make sure the more glossy side of this
layer is facing the outside.
9. Re-assemble the silencer by sliding the muffler sleeve over the core assembly and reinstalling
the end caps (remember to re-install the carbon fiber end cap on Factory
mufflers that are so equipped). Line up the rivet bands over the rivet holes, over-lapping
the final two holes of each band and rivet both the front and rear ends of the muffler. To
avoid the risk of any leakage or wear of the rivets, we strongly recommend using the
LeoVince spare parts rivets (sold separately with the rivet straps) as they are made from a
high quality 304 stainless steel.
How to Clean Motorcycle Brakes
Motorcycle brakes,
just like other parts on motorcycles, can become dirty and covered with oil, grease and other residue. However, for any kind of decent performance, motorcycle brakes must be very clean. So, it is important to quickly and effectively clean these pieces of equipment without damaging them.
Pull the motorcycle to an open, accessible area (preferably a lawn), and place the motorcycle on a jack stand or center stand. If you do not own one of these stands, try placing the bike on a large block or similar device.
Use a flat-head screwdriver to pry apart the brake pads in the brake assembly. Dip a rag in a bucket of hot, soapy water and use it to begin scrubbing the brake disc. The disc is easily accessible just to the side of the tire, and you can access the disc area within the brake pads by turning the wheel.
Slide the rag between the brake pads. Make sure to get them as clean as possible.
Use a sponge with a scrub side to scrub grime and grease off the surface of the brake disc. Again, spin the tire to access the portion of the disc that is between the brake pads and within the assembly.
Hose the entire braking assembly. It is important that no soapy residue is left on any surfaces of the brake, as it will cause slipping.
Leave the brake pads spread apart for several hours so they can dry.
How to Repair Small Engines part1-Small Engine Basics
Fuel and Exhaust
Ignition
Combustion
The Benefits of Regular Small-Engine Maintenance
Benefits of Regular Service
- By establishing a service schedule, you will gain confidence that whenever you need the unit it will be ready for use.
- By performing a number of service functions together, you will save time. You can pick up all needed parts and lubricants in one trip to the parts store. Then you need to disassemble a component only once to perform numerous service procedures rather than taking it apart many times.
- Regular service gives you a chance to visually inspect the entire engine and related components for damage, wear, and other potential problems.
Four-Stroke Carburetors – Jetting
- Pilot too lean
- Idle set too high
- Improper starting procedure
- Bike wants hot-start button (KTMs and 400Fs)
- Idle set too high
- Air leak in intake or engine
- Pilot too rich (when bike is hot)
- Pilot jet too lean
- Air filter over-oiled
- Motor oil too thick for temperature
- Main jet too rich
- Air filter over-oiled
- Spark plug has debris on electrode
- Pilot jet too lean
- Idle set too low
- Valves set too tight
- Decompressor is set too tight, so turning the bars engages release slightly
- Float level too low
- Carb vent tubes blocked
- Main jet splash shield not installed
- Float level too high, gas is trapped in vent tunes (install T-vents)
- Pilot jet too rich
- Water in fuel
- Debris in main jet
- Stuck float check valve
- Debris in gas or carb
- Main jet too lean
- Fuel octane too low, causing detonation
- Needle too lean
- Slide cutaway too lean
- Pumper circuit blocked or too lean
Spoke Wheel Lacing
- Get a new wheel assembly. This is very expensive. I would do this only if the bike is very new and the wheel really trashed.
-
Replace the broken spokes, rim, and/or hub. Then relace and true the wheel. This would seem to be the best way except for a couple of things.
- The spoke nipples, on older bikes, often get rusted so tight to the spoke you can’t get them off without cutting the spoke.
- The spoke nipples, on a high performance bike, can stretch the threads on the nipple and spoke. This can lock them together. This, in turn makes you cut all the spokes off. The spoke and nipple sets for some bikes only cost $30.00, which is not too bad. However, I know at least one high performance dirt racer who’s spokes cost almost $200.00 for the set.
- Get a used wheel. If you have an older bike, I think the best plan is to look for a used wheel at a motorcycle salvage yard. Check both the spokes, and the truing of the wheel before you buy the wheel and plan to replace the wheel bearings. The cost of the used wheel will be a lot less than going any other way.
Repairing a Manual Clutch
MANUAL CLUTCHES
Clutches come in a number of designs, but they all are made to do two things.
Help the motorcycle make a smooth start from a stationary position.
Ease the transition of going from one gear to another.
Clutches are basically round baskets filled with alternating fiber and steel plates held together, tightly, with springs. One set of plates, usually the steel ones, is connected to the transmission. The other set, usually the fiber plates, is connected to the engine. The clutch lever compresses the springs so the plates are not pressed tightly together. This allows the clutch to disengage. This works pretty well and most times clutch life is quite good. However, as the clutch wears, the plates get thinner. This lessens the spring pressure. In addition, if you slip the clutch a lot as you engage it you can burn the plates a bit. All this is not good for the clutch and sooner or later you are going to need new plates.
Most of the Japanese bikes have a wet plate clutch. This means the clutch runs in a bath of oil.
Dry plate clutches run dry with no oil. BMWs, some Harley-Davidsons, a few Japanese bikes, and others have dry clutches.
Repair is really quite simple. Remove the clutch cover, being careful to check for any washers from the kick starter that may stick to the inside of the clutch cover. Then loosen the nuts or bolts that hold and tension the clutch springs. Now remove the the clutch plates. On some clutches you pull the plates and the inner clutch basket as a unitafter removing the nut or circlip holding it on. On others, you remove an outer clutch plate/spring carrier and then pull out the plates individually. There may be large rubber rings or large flat spring like things between the plates. There might be only one or there could be one between every plate. Sometimes the steel plates have a sort of dished out edge on one side, for better oiling I guess. Each one is staggered from the one before it and the one after it. Be sure and put all the plates, o-rings, washers, etc. back in the same order you took them out. Measure the thickness of the fiber plates and compare that measurement to the one given in your shop manual. If they are too thin replace them. If you do not have the thickness measurement just look at them. Most times if they are worn out they will LOOK worn out and/or smell burnt. If they smell burnt, replace them. Even if they look and measure good. Turn them on edge, both fiber and steel plates. If they are bent replace them. Look at the inner and outer fingers. If they are damaged or worn, replace them. Look at the clutch basket. Inspect the grooves the clutch plate fingers slide into. Both inner and outer. if they are badly worn, consider replacing the clutch basket.
Take the new fiber plates and soak them in a pan of oil for an hour or two before assembly. If you are reusing the old plates you can just coat them with oil. Make sure that the outer clutch plate that carries the springs meshes right with the clutch basket. On some, they will only go in the right way, but on others the grooves will not line up right and this prevents the springs from pushing the plates together. Some clutches will have arrows that must match. Others won’t have anything… you just have to make sure they mesh up right.
Most clutches have the disengagement mechanism in the center of the clutch. Some activate it from the clutch cover and some use a rod going through the mainshaft of the transmission. This rod is activated by a cam or worm on one end of the rod, pushing the rod against the spring plate, releasing the clutch. This rod passes in front of the counter shaft sprocket and can easily be bent by small twigs and branches and gook thrown off by the rear chain. If you have this type and your clutch suddenly stops working, check here first for a bent clutch rod, before you tear the clutch apart. These rods can also be in two parts with a ball bearing between them. Some have a ball bearing only on the worm end. Don’t let that ball bearing fall out and get lost.
Sometimes, when a bike has been sitting a long time, like over winter, the clutch plates will stick together. You pull the clutch lever in but the plates will not disengage. About 60-70% of the time you can get them to release by running the bike up to 15-20 MPH and locking up the rear brake while you hold the clutch lever in (disengaged). If this does not break it loose, you will have to take the clutch cover off and with the lever held on, pry the plates apart with a screwdriver and reoil them a bit.
Remember, most engines have a flat metal shim on the kick starter shaft. Lots of times it will stick to the clutch cover when you pull it off. Make sure you put it back on the kick starter.
After everything is finished and the clutch cover back on, don’t forget to refill the engine with oil.
Some clutches, like the BMWs, Norton Commandos and some Harleys, have a single (or two) Heavy spring that is held in by a large circlip. These require a special tool to remove.
The BSAs and Triumphs require a special puller to get the clutch basket off.
All clutches must have a bit of free play in the cables and rods so the clutch springs can exert the maximum amount of pressure on the plates. If there is an adjustment screwon the rod, loosen the lock nut and tighten the screw until there is no more free play, then loosen it about 1/8 of a turn and tighten the lock nut. The adjustment screw can be right OR left thread, so watch out. A shop manual would be of help here. The adjusting screw can also be UNDER the clutch cover on the clutch spring plate. After you have made this adjustment, adjust the clutch cable keeping at least a little free play in the cable. Remember, on some bikes, the only adjustment is the free play of the clutch cable. Depending on the bike, the cable can be adjusted on both ends and in the center somewhere, only on both ends or only on one end.
source
cleaning engine airfilter
Liberally spray K&N Air Filter Cleaner onto both sides of filter and allow to soak for 10 minutes to loosen the dirt. Do not allow cleaner to dry on air filter.
2. RINSE FILTER
Rinse off air filter with cool low-pressure water applied to the clean side out in order to flush the dirt out of the filter. Continue to rinse the filter until all traces of cleaner are gone. It may be necessary to repeat steps 1 and 2.
3. DRY FILTER
After rinsing, gently shake off excess water and only allow filter to dry naturally. Do not oil until the filter is completely dry.
4. OIL FILTER
A.) Squeeze Oil (99-5050)
Apply K&N Air Filter Oil evenly along the crown of each pleat. Allow oil to wick for approximately 20 minutes. Touch up any light areas on either side of filter until there is a uniform red color at all areas.
B.) Aerosol Oil (99-5000)
Spray K&N Air Filter Oil evenly along the crown of each pleat holding nozzle about 3″ away. Allow oil to wick for approximately 20 minutes. Touch up any light areas on either side of the filter until there is a uniform red color at all areas.
Related articles
Cleaning Instructions for K&N Synthetic Outdoor Equipment and Industrial Air Filters
Cleaning Instructions for K&N Heavy Duty Hybrid Air Filters
Cleaning Video – Cotton Oiled Filters
Cleaning Video – Cotton Oiled Filters (Captions)
Cleaning Video – Synthetic Outdoor Equipment and Industrial Filters
Cleaning Video – Heavy Duty Synthetic Hybrid Air Filters
Ignition Timing
Making changes to the ignition timing is one of the easiest ways to increase the power and efficiency of a four-stroke internal combustion engine and it has therefore become one of the first things an engine tuner will address. Ignition timing is a term that defines when the spark plug fires in relation to the piston‘s position within the cylinder. Without all of the knowledge that I’m about to give you, one would naturally assume that the spark plug should fire and ignite the air/fuel mixture when the piston is at the top of the cylinder and the air/fuel mixture is compressed as much as possible. At this point (referred to as Top Dead Center or TDC) the igniting air/fuel mixture will rapidly expand and push the piston back down, powering the engine. Unfortunately for all of us trying to tune our engines, there is one thing that prevents us from doing something so simple – it takes some time for the flame front to ignite the air/fuel mixture once the spark plug fires, therefore the spark plug must ignite a short time before TDC to achieve the desired result. It only takes a matter of milliseconds to burn the mixture in a cylinder under any circumstances, but when pistons are flying up and down at the rates they do in an engine, those milliseconds become critical. If the spark plug fires when the piston is at TDC, the piston may be well on its way down the cylinder by the time the air/fuel mixture is completely burned. To make matters even more difficult, there are a number of factors that can greatly affect the speed at which the mixture burns, including cylinder shape, mixture strength (lean or rich), type of fuel, compression ratio, how much air/fuel is in the cylinder, pressure, temperature, and humidity. Since cylinder shape, compression ratio, and the type of fuel are going to remain constant for an engine while it is being tuned, this article will concentrate on the remaining factors. Compression ratio is something that can be changed between tuning sessions, so one should know that an increase in compression ratio can be treated as a general increase in the cylinder pressure, which will be discussed in detail. The type of fuel used also greatly affects ignition timing, but it will only be briefly discussed here as a full discussion would double the size of this article. To learn more, see the link at the bottom.
The units most commonly used for ignition timing are degrees BTDC (Before TDC), with zero degrees BTDC meaning that the piston is at TDC when the spark plug fires. If the ignition timing is at 10o BTDC, then the spark plug fires when the crankshaft is rotated 10o before the piston is at TDC. If there is any number of positive degrees BTDC and the spark plug fires before the piston has reached TDC, then the timing is considered to be “advanced.” If the degrees are negative and the spark plug fires after the piston has reached TDC, then the timing is considered to be “retarded.” These two terms are also commonly used when making changes to the timing, as increasing the degrees BTDC is referred to as “advancing” the timing, and decreasing the degrees BTDC is referred to as “retarding” the timing. Engines usually have marks on the balancer or pulley that is attached to the end of the crankshaft and a mark(s) on the engine block. In order to determine an engine’s timing, a timing light is used. A typical timing light has an inductive pickup that clamps over the number one spark plug wire. When current passes through the wire and the spark plug fires, a signal is sent to the timing light, and the light flashes at the same time as the number one spark plug. The flashing light will appear to freeze the motion of the crankshaft, and the timing can be read with the marks. Normally, zeroo BTDC is when a mark on the balancer lines up with a mark on the block. Some engines have many marks on the balancer or the block indicating degree increments, but others have only one. When there is only one mark on each, an “advance” timing light must be used. This kind of timing light has a dial on it marked in degrees. One operates it by turning the dial until the two marks line up and then reading the degrees from the dial.
Now we get to the good stuff. In order to make the most power, the spark plug must fire at the right time so that the air/fuel mixture is completely burned at about the time when the piston reaches TDC so that the expanding gases can shove the piston back down. If the ignition happens too late, the expanding gases are shoving against something that has already moved away on its own and full power is not realized. If the ignition happens too early, the expanding gases are shoving against a piston that is moving towards them, and they will actually slow the piston down. If this condition occurs when one is starting the engine, one may experience “kick-back,” as the engine doesn’t yet have enough momentum and the starter motor isn’t strong enough to overcome the gases trying to push the pistons backwards. Once the engine is running, this overly-advanced condition may become evident with a “knocking” or “pinging” sound. Parts of the air/fuel mixture will autoignite (ignite on their own, with no spark plug firing) if enough pressure and/or heat is applied. If the spark happens too early in the cycle, the air/fuel mixture parts that are sensitive to autoignition can react (ignite) from the pressure created by sandwiching them between the rising piston below them and the flame front and corresponding shock wave from the burning air/fuel above them. This autoignition can create quite a shockwave of its own that is commonly heard as the “knock.” Unfortunately, this shockwave can damage and eventually destroy the engine if it happens too often. This condition is more prone to occur in high heat and the higher pressures caused by higher compression engines and by forced induction. Higher octane gasolines produce mixtures with air that are less likely to autoignite, so their use will lessen the likelihood of knocking and allow the engine tuner to advance the timing further.
“Pre-ignition” is when the air/fuel mixture autoignites from excess heat and/or pressure before the spark plug has fired, and has little to do with the ignition timing. Unfortunately for the tuner and the customer, it can sound exactly the same as an autoignition from timing that is too advanced. Lowering the pressure and/or the heat in the combustion chamber will reduce the chances of pre-ignition. Lowering the pressure on a forced-induction engine is as simple as lowering the boost, but on a normally aspirated engine it may be as daunting as changing a head gasket to lower the compression ratio. Fortunately, pre-ignition may be caused by something as simple as a spark plug that is too “hot.” This heat range rating on the spark plug refers to its thermal conductivity and its ability to dissipate heat. A “hotter” plug will retain more heat in its tip and may stay hot enough to ignite the air/fuel mixture at an unwanted time. Therefore, “colder” plugs are desired when the pressure in a combustion chamber is increased. Care must be taken when choosing a heat range for spark plugs, as plugs that are too “cold” will result in poor starting and drivability.
As an engine speeds up, the spark plug should fire earlier (timing should be advanced) for the simple reason that there is less time for the combustion to happen as the piston speeds increase. The engine tuner’s job is to make that spark happen at just the right time throughout the rpm range. For those that want to get technical, it turns out that the spark should occur at a point so that the flame front travels through the mixture and burns it completely, and the heated, expanding combustion products reach a maximum pressure when the piston is about 15-20 degrees after TDC. With a dynamometer at his disposal, that job would be very easy if it weren’t for all of the variables mentioned earlier. Fortunately, the effect those variables have is very well understood and they can be accounted for if the engine has the right management system.
Under normal circumstances, pressure has the most significant effect on the ignition timing. When the pressure of the air/fuel mixture increases, the flame front travels through it much faster as the front has less space to jump when traveling from molecule to molecule since the molecules are closer together. The same can be said if more of the mixture is in the cylinder or if the temperature is lower, as cold air is more dense than warm air. An increase in humidity will also act like an increase in pressure as the extra water molecules will help bridge the gaps between the air molecules, increasing the speed the flame front can travel. Since an increase in pressure results in a decreased combustion time, the ignition timing must be retarded as the pressure increases to avoid knocking. As far as what makes the pressure change – the cylinder pressure increases as the load on the engine increases and/or if forced induction (turbocharger, supercharger) is used. When an engine is idling or under light load and there is little pressure, the ignition timing may be advanced. Once the engine experiences a load or forced induction kicks in and the pressure builds, the timing must be retarded.
Since measuring the pressure inside the actual cylinder would be highly impractical, engine management systems use the intake manifold pressure. Newer vehicles have what is known as a Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) gauge or sensor. The absolute pressure measurement has the normal atmospheric pressure (14.7 psi or 1 bar) factored out of it, so a full vacuum would read zero and normal, sea-level atmospheric pressure would read 14.7 psi on an absolute pressure gauge. In the engineering world, this differs from gauge pressure which really measures the difference between atmospheric pressure and the thing that one is measuring. For example, your fuel pressure would be read in gauge pressure, and the units would technically be “psig” as opposed to “psia.” If the fuel pressure was 30 psi (psig), it would actually be 30 psi over atmospheric pressure. An absolute pressure measurement is used instead of gauge pressure so that the vehicle’s management system may include the surrounding barometric pressure and know what the “real” pressure inside the manifold is.
Newer vehicles have sophisticated electronic management systems that control everything that happens within the engine and even some things that happen outside of it. These systems are commonly referred to as “Engine Control Units” or ECU’s. For those with such a system, tuning the engine becomes a matter of electronics and computer software. The distributor has disappeared, and multiple coils, sometimes one for each spark plug, have taken its place. Through the use of sensors such as the MAP sensor, the Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor, and the crankshaft position sensor, the ECU can monitor all of the variables within the engine along with the environmental conditions, and tell each spark plug exactly when to fire. If one has such a vehicle with an ECU that is not programmable and can not be changed with the addition of a chip, then one is going to be very limited when it comes to tuning. If one is fortunate enough to have a fully programmable ECU, then one may change the ignition timing and possibly many other things as well until one has gone absolutely insane. Many non-programmable ECU’s can be reprogrammed, or “re-flashed” with new programs, and others can accept aftermarket add-on chips that change the programs. One may have to perform a little research to determine what type of ECU is in the vehicle.
Older vehicles with distributors can be much simpler to tune (sometimes.) Besides the timing light and a wrench, no fancy equipment or computer knowledge is necessary. Way back in the day before crank position sensors, ECU’s, and individual coil-packs, the distributor was used to determine when each spark plug should fire. The distributor can be a very simple device, consisting of a rotor and a cap. Through the use of chains and gears, the rotor spins at the same speed as the crankshaft. Inside the cap are “points,” which are small metal tabs. There is one point for each spark plug, and the rotor periodically touches the points as it spins. The rotor is connected through a high voltage coil to the battery, and the points are connected via spark plug wires to the spark plugs. As the rotor spins, it contacts the points, completing the electrical circuit and sending short-duration, high-voltage currents to each spark plug, hopefully in the correct order. Changing the ignition timing can be done by simply twisting the cap in relation to the rotor so that the points are touched a little sooner or a little later. Unfortunately, this changes only the “static” timing, which is the ignition timing that the engine will see throughout its entire rpm range if no other timing devices are used. If no other timing devices are used, then the timing can not change along with the pressure, rpm, and all of those other variables, and it will be impossible for the engine to operate at peak power and efficiency over the broad range that it must during every day driving. For racers that operate in a very narrow range, static-only timing may be sufficient.
Fortunately for everyone else, the automotive engineers way back in the day really knew what they were doing, and they came up with two devices that allow the engine to operate with greater power and efficiency over a very broad range. The two variables that have the greatest impact on timing, rpm and pressure, are taken into account with the “mechanical (or centrifugal) advance” and the “vacuum advance” devices. Using the same principal that keeps water in a bucket when one swings it around in a circle, the mechanical advance consists of weights on springs that move away from a spinning shaft. The weights are attached to some other moveable parts and levers that will create the same twisting action between the rotor and the cap as changing the static timing by hand. As the engine rpm increases, the weights move further out, changing the rotor-cap relation further. As stated earlier, an rpm increase should advance the timing, so the mechanical advance device is used to advance the timing as the engine’s rpm increases. The device used to factor in the pressure in the cylinder is the vacuum advance. It is a device that creates the same result as the mechanical advance, but it does so in response to a low-pressure situation in the intake manifold. Under low-load conditions the air rushing through the manifold creates a partial vacuum (negative readings on a psig gauge, readings below normal atmospheric pressure on a psia or MAP gauge) and the device advances the timing. As the load increases and the pressure increases, the vacuum advance will allow the rotor-cap relation to spring back, retarding the timing. When one wants to tune using these devices, one can simply adjust the static timing and allow the devices to perform their functions. If one wants to change the amount of timing that is advanced and the points at which the advances are made, one can replace the springs and/or weights within the mechanical advance and use an adjustable vacuum advance and/or change the location where it senses the vacuum in the manifold.
If you’re looking for me to tell you where to set the timing – this articles is too long as it is. Every engine is different, and timing is going to vary from as little as 8 degrees BTDC to over 40. With a little research, one can find out a good starting point for the ignition timing. Fine tuning should be done on a dyno or under controlled conditions at the track.
To summarize:
1. Ignition timing is a way to describe when the spark plug fires in relation to the piston’s position and is measured in degrees BTDC.
2. The ignition timing must take into account the fact that it takes time for the air/fuel mixture to burn.
3. The ignition timing should advance as the engine rpm increases.
4. The ignition timing should retard as pressure in the cylinder (as measured in the intake manifold) increases.
5. Every engine is different, and it’s the engine tuner’s job to take these factors into account (and a few others) when setting the ignition timing.
Gasoline has a significant effect on all of this stuff I just described. If you want to learn just about everything there is to know about gasoline in one place in a language that’s easy to understand, please read: source
How to clean Your Helmet -DO-IT-YOURSELF
Whether you’re a new or experienced rider, chances are you’re going to have a smelly/dirty helmet after all the motorcycle riding you’ve done. A lotta people ask how to clean lids inside and out, and although there are a lotta different methods and suggestions, I’ve compiled the most effective ways to do so. (Plus there wasn’t a how to on this anyway, so I hope it helps)
If you own a helmet with a removable interior lining, then you pretty much have it made. You remove the lining and/or the cheekpads and throw them in the laundry machine at delicate cycle, while that is washing, you can clean the outside of the helmet with a soft cloth/towel/micro fiber and mild detergent. Moisten the soft cloth/towel/micro fiber, put a few drops of mild detergent on it, and wipe the shell gently, the detergent will do it’s job with the grime/dirt/etc and after you’re done, you simply wipe off with water until the detergent is gone. You’ll be left with a shiny clean OIL FREE shell.
BUT for those of us with helmets that do NOT have a removable liner.. the job is a little trickier. Skin oil and sweat builds up and all the “spray cleaners” just don’t quite cut it. I’ve tried helmet fresh and all it did was make it smell better, and I’ve tried Motorex Helmet Care Spray, which yielded same results, all fragrance, minimal cleaning effect (on the lining).
Follow these steps if your helmet doesn’t have a removable liner and smells like poop.
Step 1
Buy a helmet to clean if you don’t already own one unless you want a how to: stitch your own head/scalp/face up thread.
Step 2
Remove the cheekpads, breath guard, visor, etc.
Step 3
Grab some shampoo. If it’s good enough for your head, it’s good enough for your helmet. Dish detergent might be a bit harsh for the interior, so avoid that.
Don’t overdo it, but don’t be cheap with it. If your helmet REALLY smells, then go ahead and put some more.
Step 4
Fill with lukewarm water. I have a feeling cold and hot might be a bad idea, stay away from the extremes.
Step 5
Rinse to agitate the excessive dust/dirt out, you don’t want to dunk it in the CLEAN water and scrub with the same contaminated water.
Step 6
NOW dunk it in and douse that mofo in cleanliness.
Get it all up in there.
Step 7
Gently massage the lining so the shampoo works its magic.
Step 8
Rinse out all the shampoo thoroughly.
Step 9
Pat dry the exterior to avoid water spots and let it air dry. If you live someplace humid or extremely hot, you may want to place it in a cool DRY place with a fan blowing it or something. Look at the shine!
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