Paton 500cc Two-Stroke V4~ Video

The Paton Company is getting ready for another big challenge, with the introduction of a new 500cc four-cylinder Grand Prix racer powered by the unique Paton V4 two-stroke engine.
It’s obviously a motorcycle for track use only, but with its 190 bhp power delivery it’s more than capable of generating adrenalin for any motorcycle fan lucky enough to ride it.

Paton 500cc Two-Stroke V4

The engine design is exactly the same as that used from the mid-’70s until 2001 in the blue riband class of 500cc Grand Prix racing, scoring World Championship points in the process. It’s an exotically extreme machine, which could only be pushed to the very limit by a handful of top riders. A truly impressive horsepower ratio of 380 bhp/litre makes today’s four-stroke MotoGP racers look practically tame – especially combined with an overall dry weight of just 135 kg!
Paton is targeting this bike at a small group of motorcycle connoisseurs – enthusiasts who witnessed the most heroic seasons of Grand Prix racing, ruled by the likes of Barry Sheene, Freddie Spencer, Kenny Roberts, Eddie Lawson, Wayne Rainey, Randy Mamola, Kevin Schwantz, and Mick Doohan, without forgetting Italian aces such as Luca Cadalora, Franco Uncini, Marco Lucchinelli, or Virginio Ferrari – and in recent years Max Biaggi, Loris Capirossi and Valentino Rossi.

Paton 500cc Two-Stroke V4

Paton 500cc Two-Stroke V4

Paton 500cc Two-Stroke V4

Paton 500cc Two-Stroke V4

Paton 500cc Two-Stroke V4

Paton 500cc Two-Stroke V4

All of them raced and won with bikes comparable to this one – star riders who shared the same unique skill in taking a bike built for “real men” right to the limit. Too bad it never happened again after 2001 – but the debut of the new Paton 500 Gran Premio in 2010 will make those glorious, thrilling days come alive again for any owner lucky enough to acquire such a bike.



Today, the Paton Company is proud to be the only manufacturer in the world selling a 500cc two-stroke Grand Prix motorcycle. Is there anyone out there brave enough to accept the challenge of owning – and riding one?

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The YAMAHA RD 350 – WORLD’S REAL" FASTEST INDIAN"

The RD350 was a motorcycle produced by Yamaha. It evolved from the piston port (pre-reed valve intake tract), front drum-braked, 5 speed Yamaha 350 cc “R5”

The YAMAHA RD 350 – WORLD’S  FASTEST INDIAN

The YAMAHA RD 350 – WORLD’S  FASTEST INDIAN

It featured a reliable aircooled, parallel twin, 6 speed (in some markets, such as the UK, the first model was sold in 5-speed form), reed valve equipped intake tract two-stroke engine. Available in either a dark green or brandy red with white and black side details with metal emblem “Yamaha” on the tank RD350 (1973), the RD350A (1974), simple purple tank with “Yamaha” decal on the tank, and the orange with white RD350B (1975). The B model (in the UK at least) also featured a silver and black colour scheme.

The YAMAHA RD 350 – WORLD’S  FASTEST INDIAN

The YAMAHA RD 350 – WORLD’S  FASTEST INDIAN

The YAMAHA RD 350 – WORLD’S  FASTEST INDIAN

The YAMAHA RD 350 – WORLD’S  FASTEST INDIAN

The YAMAHA RD 350 – WORLD’S  FASTEST INDIAN

The YAMAHA RD 350 – WORLD’S  FASTEST INDIAN

The YAMAHA RD 350 – WORLD’S  FASTEST INDIAN

The YAMAHA RD 350 – WORLD’S  FASTEST INDIAN

The YAMAHA RD 350 – WORLD’S  FASTEST INDIAN

The YAMAHA RD 350 – WORLD’S  FASTEST INDIAN

The YAMAHA RD 350 – WORLD’S  FASTEST INDIAN

The YAMAHA RD 350 – WORLD’S  FASTEST INDIAN

The YAMAHA RD 350 – WORLD’S  FASTEST INDIAN

The YAMAHA RD 350 – WORLD’S  FASTEST INDIAN

The YAMAHA RD 350 – WORLD’S  FASTEST INDIAN

The YAMAHA RD 350 – WORLD’S  FASTEST INDIAN

All models were equipped with “Autolube” automatic oil injection, relieving the user from the need to mix gasoline and two-stroke oil.
Rim sizes were 18″ WM2 (1.85″) front and 18″ WM3 (2.15″), both being of chromed, wire spoked steel construction. In the UK, rim sizes were 1.60 front and 1.85 rear.
Brakes were: single front disc brake and a rear drum brake, a combination described by Cycle Magazine as the best in its class.
The frame dimensions of the street 350 were very similar to the famous Yamaha TZ250 and TZ350 series factory road race bikes, differing mainly in weight and front fork rake – the RD being ~27 degrees and the TZ being ~25 degrees. The frames appeared similar, side by side, with the street frame adorned with many brackets for the street equipment. The weight difference was substantial though, with the street going RD frame weighing almost twice as much as the “TZ” roadrace race frame.
The stock bike made about 32 to 35 true rear-wheel HP at about 7500 rpm – very fast for the time. A contemporary of the RD was the Kawasaki H2 750cc Triple, said to make 72 to 75 true HP (tested by Cycle Magazine at 55 bhp).
The 350 evolved into the more refined and cleaner running RD400C in 1976, the “D” and “E” in 77-78 and the final model, the white 1979 RD400F.



The The YAMAHA RD 350 – Models


XS = 4 stroke tourer
XV = 4 stroke V
DT = 2 stroke trail
RD = 2 stroke road


The YAMAHA RD 350 B in India

The RD350B was assembled in India between 1983-1990 by Escorts group under the brand name Rajdoot 350. It did not repeat the worldwide success of the RD350B in the Indian market. Its lackluster sales figures can be attributed to high purchase price and poor fuel efficiency. However, it established Yamaha as a performance bike manufacturer in India. There were two models for the Rajdoot 350 – High Torque and Low Torque. Compared to the Yamaha RD350B that made 39 crankshaft bhp, the Indian-made HIGH TORQUE made 30.5 bhp (22.7 kW) and the later LOW TORQUE made only 27 bhp (20 kW), all in quest of better fuel economy. By the time the production ended in 1990, the bike was completely indigenized with very little Japanese part content.

The YAMAHA RD 350 – WORLD’S  FASTEST INDIAN

Owners clubs and organized rides are existent in almost all major cities. A lot of the bikes got scrapped or became non-runners due to lack of spares in the early 1990s. However, specialist dealers are supplying all major spares that are locally made or imported from USA and Singapore. Also, Yamaha India has promised to supply all spare parts for the RD350 henceforth

Yamaha RD 350 Twin
Years produced: 1970-1972
Claimed power: 36hp @ 7,000rpm
Top speed: 91mph (period test)
Engine type: 347cc air-cooled 2-stroke parallel twin
Transmission: 5-speed
Weight: 322lb (dry)

The YAMAHA RD 350 – WORLD’S  FASTEST INDIAN

The YAMAHA RD 350 – WORLD’S  FASTEST INDIAN

The YAMAHA RD 350 – WORLD’S  FASTEST INDIAN
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The YAMAHA RD 350 – WORLD’S  FASTEST INDIAN

The YAMAHA RD 350 – WORLD’S  FASTEST INDIAN

The YAMAHA RD 350 – WORLD’S  FASTEST INDIAN

The YAMAHA RD 350 – WORLD’S  FASTEST INDIAN

The YAMAHA RD 350 – WORLD’S  FASTEST INDIAN

The YAMAHA RD 350 – WORLD’S  FASTEST INDIAN

The YAMAHA RD 350 – WORLD’S  FASTEST INDIAN

The YAMAHA RD 350 – WORLD’S  FASTEST INDIAN

The YAMAHA RD 350 – WORLD’S  FASTEST INDIAN

The YAMAHA RD 350 – WORLD’S  FASTEST INDIAN

The YAMAHA RD 350 – WORLD’S  FASTEST INDIAN

The YAMAHA RD 350 – WORLD’S  FASTEST INDIAN

The YAMAHA RD 350 – WORLD’S  FASTEST INDIAN

The YAMAHA RD 350 – WORLD’S  FASTEST INDIAN

YAMAHA SPARES!!!

old Saab’s had a 2-stroke engine.

That old Saab’s had a 2-stroke engine. Not completely unheard of, but pretty different in a car.
Can’t show a picture of it, but old Saab’s had freewheels in them. Works like the freewheel on your bike… it lets you coast without the engine engaged. Originally install on the 2-stroke engines so it would seize from oil starvation when using the engine to slow the car. But they carried it over to when they switched to the V4.  it’s a pretty cool feature. You can shift down to say 2nd when you are coasting up to a corner, knowing that is the gear you’ll want to be in on the way out.


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Two Stroke Exhaust Pipes- expansion chambers

Walter Kaaden, the chief engineer for MZ motorcycles in the 1950s, is generally considered the father of the modern two stroke expansion chamber. He reportedly said “You’ll know when you have the design right, because the chamber will then be impossible to fit on the motorcycle without having it drag the ground, burn the rider’s leg, or force the relocation of one or more major components.”

Deutsch: Arbeitsweise eines Resonanz-Schalldäm...Image via Wikipedia


Two strokes are all about the exhaust. When combustion occurs in a two stroke, the piston is pushed down by the expanding gases uncovering the exhaust port. The exhaust gas rushes out into the header pipe and a pressure wave is created. This wave can be either positive or negative in pressure. If it is a positive wave and hits a change in diameter in the tubing of the exhaust pipe it changes to a negative wave. Hit another change in diameter and the wave changes back to positive. This wave pressure can be as high as seven pounds per square inch (Both positive and negative waves) and travels at 1600 to 1700 feet per second.

Expansion Chambers



If the pipe is made just right, a wave with negative pressure reaches the exhaust port just as it is fully open. This sucks the exhaust AND part of the new intake charge into the exhaust pipe. Then, just before the piston closes the exhaust port, this negative wave changes to a positive wave and pushes the fresh intake fuel charge BACK into the cylinder. All this happens in three to four thousands of a second. This sort of supercharges the engine, giving the high power out put of a two stroke engine. Without that properly designed exhaust pipe called an “Expansion Chamber“, the two stroke engine will have no real power!


There is only one draw back to all this and that is that this supercharging only happens at the specific RPM that the pipe was designed for. Running the engine at any RPM above or below the designed RPM and the supercharging effect will be much less effective. That is why two strokes have such a narrow power band.

Here is a really nice Gif animation showing how it all works. I got this from a web site, made by Joseph A. Schuster in 1997. I have tried to e-mail him but there was no response. The site is no longer online. I am assuming he would want you to have this.  One problem with two stroke exhausts is that they can get plugged up with carbon from the oil used to lubricate the engine. The bike will start easily but just will not rev up. This is especially true of quite exhausts. If the exhaust has removable baffles or is fiberglass packed, you can easily clean them and replace the fiberglass packing. If the baffles are not removable it is much harder to clean them. Many stock two stroke exhausts have non removable baffles or have only one or two baffles that are removable. The different baffles collect the unburned carbon and plug up but you can’t easily get to them. There are several cures. Non of which are easy or cheap.

  1. A new exhaust. This the most expensive and sure fire way to cure the problem.
  2. Burn the carbon out of the exhaust. This works quite well. The problem is that you need an oxy-acetylene torch set up and considerable skill in burning it out. You must heat the pipe hot enough to get the carbon burning but not so hot that you melt the steel of the pipe and internal pipe baffles. Once the carbon starts to burn you must make sure enough oxygen gets blown through the pipe to keep the carbon burning until it is all burned out. Sometimes you can actually see the progression of the burn, as a red hot band around the body of the muffler, as it moves from one end of the pipe to the other. If the carbon goes out it is quite hard to get it burning again. This is tricky but works well if you can do it. There is a big risk of melting the internal baffling. Melt a few baffles out and the pipe will run very loud. Do this outside. It produces smoke like a smoke bomb.
  3. Cut the exhaust pipe open on the back side and then burn out the carbon. Then weld the pipe back together. Again, do it outside.
  4. Use caustic soda to dissolve the carbon. Simply fill the pipe with a solution of caustic soda and water. The mixture should be about three pounds of caustic soda mixed with one gallon of water. This is not a real good option because the caustic soda is, well, caustic and dangerous to use. I DO NOT recommend this method.
  5. A mixture of soap that dissolves the carbon. There are several companies that sell special soap for this. I have tried some of their samples and I thought they just did not work. I filled up one plugged exhaust pipe with their soap mixture and left it for about 30 hours and nothing happened. Maybe I didn’t give it enough time. At least it’s harmless to use!

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SLIM BOB – McQuiston’s Chopper Design’s

McQuiston’s Chopper Design’s


Is it possible to build a classy looking bike @ a cheaper price without compromising its quality nor integrity ? yes we can says Ryan McQuiston


Believe it or not the whole project was Under $600 including the price of the donor motorcycle , what was he thinking !!! ,


This optimistic builder choose Kawasaki 1971 F7 175cc as his donor ,


Trivia Of F7





The F7 175cc Dual Sport was built by Kawasaki from 1971 to 1976, and while the motorcycle could be mistaken for the 125, you couldn’t mistake the power the 175 had over its smaller brother.


Like all Kawasaki small bores of the time, the F7 utilized a rotary valve induction system, the only induction system on a two cycle motor not governed by atmospheric pressure, a true “timed” system. The rotary valve design gave the 175 quite a bit of power, and put the 175 into the ranks of 250cc dual sport bikes of the time, 21 horsepower at 7500 revs per minute.




Build / Modifications – Ryan


Before








lets hear it in his own words
“after i got bike mostly back together with a few extra goodies etc. i realized i hated the oil tank that it had and being i was on a super cheap budget i decided to build a oil-tank the cheapest way possible being that the bike was a 2 stroke it didn’t have a oil return to oil-tank so i was free to use any material i wanted as long as it held without leaking so i chose to use PVC PIPE and 2 end caps couple fittings from pep-boys and a cool under $2 oil cap glued it all together and and decided to use existing chain guard to hold oil-tank about 10 mins of beating steel into shape i had a really cool one of kind oil-tank

                                      SLIM BOB IN THE MAKING
                                                 custom Paint 
   










                                                   Motor



                                                    
                                                    
                                                       Frame





Tanks 









                                              Accessories 







Then My attention Turned to the Frame , i got bike rear end chopped off i used the rear axle plates of the existing swing arm for my hard-tail soon as i got rear end bent and axle plates welded i went to work on mocking frame up for welding


soon as i got hard-tail welded up it was time to yank the motor for cleaning and install a new used clutch basket after cleaning and doing some paint work motor was looking pretty good


I had got the motor fixed , worked on it and tuned it to perfection


after getting motor finished i did a quik tear down and went to work on cleaning and painting parts!!


after getting tank finished i wired up bike connected fuel lines and oil lines put some gas and oil in it and started it up


After getting it started i decided to take it for a quik spin around the block runs like a champ and the bike was under $600 bucks to build including purchase of bike ”


well if you have got less than $1000 and you would wanna own a classy looking retro bike the ryan is your man He will build you perfect bike without hurting your pocket ….


After 





Video 


Hope You Enjoyed the Pictures and Video of the build 


Builder

Ryan McQuiston



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How to Repair a Small-Engine Lubrication System

English: Animation of a 4-stroke engine showin...Image via Wikipedia



Friction causes wear; it’s a law of physics. Small gas engines can wear out prematurely if moving parts aren’t lubricated. We’ll discuss how to reduce wear on your small engine and increase its useful life by servicing the lubrication system. Topics include the fuel-oil mixture for two-stroke engines and performing other lubrication services.



Always use the type and viscosity grade of oil recommended by the engine manufacturer. Lubricating oils and additives designed for four-stroke engines are not suitable for two-stroke engines.

Mixing Fuel-Oil for Two-Stroke Engines

Two-stroke engines are efficient. They only require a single rotation of the crankshaft to develop power. This simplicity requires economy in all engine systems, including lubrication. A two-stroke engine is lubricated by mixing oil with the gasoline. This fuel-oil mixture can be purchased as such, or you can mix it yourself. Here’s how to make a two-stroke engine fuel-oil mixture:
Step 1: Check the manufacturer’s recommendations for the specific ratio and grade of oil and fuel to be mixed.
Step 2: In a vented gas can used only for mixing, pour a specified amount and type of gasoline.
Step 3: Add the correct amount of recommended oil for the fuel-oil ratio. A gallon contains 128 ounces. A fuel-oil ratio of 50:1 means 50 ounces of fuel should have 1 ounce of oil added, or you should add about 2.5 ounces of recommended lubricating oil to every gallon of recommended gasoline. A 25:1 fuel-oil ratio requires about 5 ounces of oil per gallon of fuel. Also pour in any additives recommended by the manufacturer.
Step 4: Make sure all caps are securely fastened to the mixing gas can, and shake it to thoroughly mix the fuel and oil.
Step 5: Carefully pour the resulting fuel-oil mixture into the engine’s fuel tank.
Step 6: Whether you purchase fuel-oil mixed or mix it yourself, rotate the fuel tank in a circle a few times to remix the fuel and oil before each use.

Lubrication Service

Some small engines require additional lubrication, depending on their design and the tasks they perform. A riding lawn mower, for example, may require lubrication of the axles and steering box. Though this article can’t cover all possible lubrication service procedures, it can offer procedures that are easily adaptable to most small engines.
Lubrication service is the application of lubricating greases. Greases are simply petroleum products with higher viscosity or thickness than oils. A lubricating grease may have a grade as low as 60 (about twice as thick as 30 grade oil) to over 100. Common viscosities for lubricating greases are 80 and 90 grade. At these viscosities, lubricants have the density of toothpaste. Special tools called lube guns are used to apply lubricating greases. Professional repair shops use pressurized lube guns; the engine owner can apply lubricating greases with a ratchet lube gun. The greases are sold in tubes that fit into the lube gun. Here’s how to apply lubricating grease to small engine components:
Step 1: Check the owner’s manual for specific information on lubrication: where and with what.
Step 2: Apply the recommended grade of lubricating grease. Some components have fittings to which the end of the lube gun is attached. Others require that the top of a reservoir is opened and fluid added to a specific FULL point. Still other components require that a lubricant such as white grease be spread on the part by hand.
Caution: Make sure that lubricating greases do not touch electrical parts. Lubricants can conduct electricity, shorting out the system and potentially causing a fire.
A defective cooling system can ruin a small engine. Learn how to properly maintain and service a cooling system in the next section.
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